The huge sign casts glowing green light onto the sidewalk of Girard Avenue in Philly’s funky neighborhood of Northern Liberties: Pho House, it says, with a wide green roof draped across the second word, the “U” of which is drawn as a bowl of soup with steam rising from within it. My mouth waters.
Pho—pronounced “fuh”—is a traditional Vietnamese noodle soup that has become popular in the world of food, and on social media amongst young foodie–slash–hipsters. While new pho joints seem to be springing up in major cities across America at an increasing rate over the last five or so years, not all pho places are created equal. In fact, because of this rising popularity, it's often difficult to find new pho places that feel authentic. Instead, many just feel, well, trendy.
This is not the case at Pho House Thang Long, which opened its second location just six months ago in Northern Liberties. The first, located in East Kensington, is where the restaurant earned a reputation for itself as an authentic source of delicious, northern Vietnamese cuisine.
“I love the neighborhood,” said Tuan Tran, manager of the restaurant’s new location. Pho House is a family business, so Tuan also happens to be the son of the head chef, Dung Tran, who traveled back to her original home in Vietnam to study the craft of making pho. Tuan made the trip with her back in the summer of 2008. “As a chef, my mother… [does what] chefs do. They’re really meticulous on how they research, and really provide a really authentic type of broth and recipe.” With the rising demand for plant–based options, part of the purpose of this trip was to perfect a vegan broth that was still authentic. Now, four vegan soups and three vegan appetizers are featured in Pho House’s already extensive menu.
However, traditional pho is a meat–heavy dish, and Pho House’s menu largely reflects this. “We’re known for our [Special] Beef Pho,” Tuan explained, “which is very slow–cooked in the morning, very early [in the] morning, with ginseng, and ginger–infused, with oxtails and different custom beef, for the broth and the flavors and everything.” Beyond that, “It’s made with love,” Tuan added, smiling widely.
I typically opt for plant–based options, but on this night in Pho House, I made an uncharacteristic choice. Seduced by scents emanating from the tucked–away kitchen, I decided it was time to log my bi–monthly portion of meat.
I’m glad I did. The first dish to the table was the spring rolls, which arrived hot to the touch, fried to a crispy golden–brown on the outside and filled on the inside with a smoothly spiced blend of vegetables and pork. They were paired with a sweet and light spring roll sauce, and each bite was juicy and balanced.
The other appetizer was the cooler cousin of the spring roll—the summer roll. They were an artfully done version of a classic dish: noodles, thai basil, cucumber, carrots and shrimp all wrapped together by rice paper and paired with sweet, thick peanut sauce.
Finally, the signature Special Beef Pho arrived at the table in a large tan bowl, steam billowing out as it moved across the room in the hands of the server. The portion was unbelievable for the cost—the amount of soup could easily serve two or even three people, at a price of only $10. The broth was flavorful and deep, and required absolutely no additional flavoring—the long process that Tuan described was evident in each spoonful. The different cuts of beef were tender, and even the beef ball—of which I was a bit skeptical—brought its own special element to the dish; the thick, chewy texture and spicy flavor contrasted perfectly with the softness of the other meat.
There is a reason that Pho House has had the opportunity to expand to a second location, and that reason is exactly what Tuan described: authentic Vietnamese food in a world where there's a lot of mediocre pho. It manages to bring together the worlds of northern Vietnam and Philadelphia, with menu items that reflect the time the Tran family has spent living in this city. For example, instead of using baguettes for their Banh Mi, Pho House intentionally stuffs Banh Mi to the brim in big Philly hoagie rolls. “I’m a Philly guy,” Tuan explained.
Pho House Thang Long has crafted a menu that is affordable, authentic, and ever–changing to suit its customers. Located at 177 West Girard Avenue and open almost every day, it’s a safe and honest bet for anyone looking for their fix of pho.
TL;DR: The Special Beef Pho will make you want to give up your plant–based diet.
Location: 177 W. Girard Ave, Philadelphia, PA, 19123
Hours: Thursday—Tuesday: 12 p.m.—10 p.m., Wednesday: Closed
Price: $
