Like its namesake, Bardot Cafe is undeniably sexy. The tin ceiling, odd but sensual artwork and cozy nooks lined in red satin make it an awkward place to bring your sister. But it’s perfect for letting a girl or guy know that yes, this is a date date.
The food though was less straightforward. The rabbit crepe ($12) was good, but also confusing. The crepe was warm, rich and spicy, similar in taste and texture to a Moroccan phyllo dough meat pie. But the small salad on the side seemed like a totally separate dish. The bitter greens were a burden. And the caramelized grapes and mushrooms were just weird. Maybe the chef was going for some poetic interpretation of a rabbit and its food side by side, but honestly, a dollop of vanilla ice cream would’ve been less out of place.
Our other appetizer was also a hit and miss. The chicken liver mousse ($10) on warm, soft brioche was creamy and slightly sweet, with a little added crunch from the crushed pistachios. The side of pickled carrot shreds had an odd texture, so I ignored them. Unfortunately that meant there wasn’t any acidity to relieve all that richness, so the dish came off as super heavy.
Our anchor dish, the duck cassoulet ($20) was by far our favorite. A hodgepodge of tender duck, kale, French sausage and haricot beans, all in a mustard cream sauce, made the cassoulet hearty and thoroughly enjoyable. For $20, the serving size was a bit on the small side, even though it was listed on the menu under the optimistically labeled “Grandes” list.
When I first heard about Bardot, I was hoping for an experience that would transport me to one of the innumerable cafes of France. While Bardot definitely has the brooding sexiness down pat, the food just hasn’t caught up yet.
