“I want my clothes to make you smile.” Such was the aspiration of fashion designer Patrick Kelly as he crafted bright and boldly colored creations. The 1980s style icon took the streets, clubs, and runways of New York and Paris by storm with his work, combining his Southern African American roots with his knowledge of art history and urban nightlife to create an aesthetic unlike any other. For over five years, Kelly brought performance art to the catwalk and pushed cultural boundaries with his work. His clothing reflected his firm belief that haute couture should be accessible to everyone. By the time of his death in 1990, Kelly had left an indelible mark on the world of fashion.
In honor of the renowned designer and his mantra, the Philadelphia Museum of Art threw a viewing party last week for Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love, the latest exposition in the museum’s Perelman Building. The exhibit features over 80 of Kelly’s designs as well as selections from his personal collection of black memorabilia, videos of his over-the-top fashion shows, and photographs by famous artists such as Horst P. Horst, Pierre et Gilles, and Oliviero Toscani. The display will remain at the Perelman Building until the end of November.
What is most interesting about Runway of Love is the visual connection it draws between Kelly’s signature style and current fashion trends. The typical body-conscious dress – or body-con – of today evolved from the bright and tight dresses Kelly designed almost 30 years ago. In addition, the modern use of peplum and tribal patterns harkens back to Kelly’s extravagant coats, dresses, and skirts that were often found on the Paris runways.
The true highlight of Runway of Love, however, is the array of Kelly’s funky accessories. The designer added everything to his pieces, from colorful feathers and oversized buttons to Eiffel Tower hats and golliwog dolls. The result is a series of playful clothes crafted for the urban socialite. The collection pays homage to Kelly’s muse, Josephine Baker, as well as his role models Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and Elsa Schiaparelli. Yet the pieces are so wonderfully puzzling and unique that is quite impossible to forget who the real designer is.
Packed with outrageously fun clothing, accessories, videos, photos, and other objects, viewers will have no trouble smiling as they experience the entertaining world of Patrick Kelly: Runway of Love.
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