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It was Saturday night, and the lights were bright inside the Vegan Commissary—really bright. “They’re connected to the ceiling fans,” explained owner Steve Laurence, “so it’s hard to get the right balance of temperature and light.” The right balance is something the Vegan Commissary is still working to strike after its December opening. Led by a team of Philly restaurant veterans, the BYO brings casual vegan dining to Passyunk/Bella Vista. The food offerings change daily, according to a minimalist chalkboard menu that most diners have to stand up to see. The sliders ($12.52, all prices include tax and tip), a smaller version of the lentil and brown rice commissary burger, suffer from the same textural problem that befalls most veggie burgers. Pickled vegetable toppings add some zest, though the waiters didn’t tell us that each slider came with different toppings. A side of pickled vegetables is five dollars and worth every vinegary bite. Spicy miso soup ($8.95) was nothing special and I wasn’t sure if the butternut squash gnudi ($10.24) were made out of tofu or nuts, but the sauce underneath and the squash–crisp topping were delicious. That’s the issue of balance again; the best dishes at Vegan Commissary aren’t vegan versions of something, they’re just good. A wilted spinach salad ($9.40) was memorable for its pickled red onions and mustard dressing, not the too–salty cashew feta. On the entree side, a well–balanced chickpea tagine with harissa and agave ($17.28) is fabulous winter comfort food, spicy and vibrant thanks to peppers and tomatoes. The linguine Bolognese ($18.56) is heavy on the pasta and hardly calls to mind the meaty original, but it tastes good, especially with some basil cashew cheese on top.
Vegan Commissary struggles with the same dilemma as many vegan restaurants: some people only want to try something resembling meat (the chimichurri seitan ($5.12) is a top seller) and others want to get their plant worship on. The Commissary caters to both, as it must on a quiet street in a space that has changed hands constantly in the last decade. One thing that ought to give Vegan Commissary some staying power is Meagan Benz, the treasure of a pastry chef who makes absolutely incredible desserts. The peanut butter cup pie ($8.96) layers dark chocolate and smooth peanut butter over a crumbly crust and the cheesecake ($9.60) sells out nightly—impressive when 60% of the customers are vegan. The seasonally appropriate chocolate heart on top even had a peanut center. This extra touch shows that the Commissary cares about the details, they just need some time. Servers need to explain one word menu items such as “okonomoyaki” and some flavors could be brighter, but they’re on their way. And for a chance to try their vegan brunch, I’m on my way back too.
VEGAN COMMISSARY
1703 South 11th St.
(215) 964-3232
Don't Miss: Desserts, especially peanut butter cup pie
Skip: Anything burger–like.
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