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Cook and Shaker
2301 East Albert Street (Kensington neighborhood)
215–426–2665
@cookandshaker
Price:$$
Don’t miss: Buffalo Fried Brussel Sprouts
Skip: The long SEPTA ride unless you’re already in the neighborhood
Fishtown's transformation from poor, working class neighborhood to twentysomething hotspot has spanned my lifetime as a native Philadelphian. Of course, this gentrification is not complete, and areas around and throughout the neighborhood still hold the old, rundown atmosphere.
Cook and Shaker is located in one of those areas. It’s hidden at the corner of two blocks of rows homes—a style characteristic of the unrenovated neighborhood. The interior is small, with modest decor and hardwood floors. Perhaps on another night, the place would have been packed and bustling and the atmosphere would have been cozier. However, with few people willing to brave the icy roads, the place was close to empty.
Location and weather aside, the staff was friendly and our service very fast. For an appetizer we had the Buffalo Fried Brussel Sprouts with house–made bleu cheese ($8). Being a vegetarian, I welcomed this spin on a traditional favorite. I don’t usually enjoy brussel sprouts, but they were tasty—the Buffalo sauce had a nice kick that the bleu cheese cut well, and the sprouts themselves were buttery—almost unrecognizable as veggies.
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For our entrees, I had the Veggie Italian ($11) and my friend had the meatloaf ($12). The Veggie Italian was a vegetarian version of a meatball sandwich; the meatballs were made from eggplant instead of beef and doused in a house–made marinara sauce, served on top of provolone cheese and broccoli rabe. The whole thing came in a sesame hoagie roll. I didn't miss traditional meat here—even my carnivore friend, after having a bite of my sandwich, had no complaints. My friend’s entree—the meatloaf—was served between two slices of bread, as if it were a hamburger. He described the meat as “perfectly done” and raved about the BBQ glaze and inclusion of pickles. Both of our orders came with fries, and our sandwiches were so big I had to take the remaining half to go.
Ultimately, Cook and Shaker gave us an interesting spin on traditional bar food. The menu is small but concise and features items that showcased local ingredients. The place has the potential to have a real neighborhood pull, but unfortunately, is not yet memorable enough to pull the average Penn student to the opposite side of the city.
