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Chef George Sabatino and his well–oiled crew at Stateside have mastered the art of small plates. I'm not the biggest fan of food in this format: small portions with two–digit prices tend to be hard to justify. So when a succession of small plates arrived at my table during my dinner at Stateside, what unfolded was the hybrid of a personalized tasting menu and a family–style smorgasbord coupled with my surprise and glee.
First, an artfully crafted Chef’s Board ($25) provided an impeccable inauguration to the vibrant spectrum of flavors and textures offered at Stateside. While the cold lamb sausage was underwhelming, the beef cheek croquette, slathered with mushroom aioli, was in perfect equilibrium with an acidic garnish of pickled red onion. A small yet indulgent wedge of pungent American Brie, complemented by a drizzle of honey and a fennel mustard, provided a glimpse into Stateside’s vast offering of cheeses.
A baby carrot and kale salad ($9) was a surprising favorite, decorated with glistening, ruby red pomegranate seeds and dotted with a refreshing ginger mousse. Its assertive acidity was juxtaposed with a smoked pork rillette ($10), topped with pickled cucumbers and jalapeños. The pork was wrapped up in fresh lettuce leaves, mitigating the richness of the meat and introducing a wonderful textural contrast. Next, a humble bowl of tender, roasted brussels sprouts ($7) arrived, their inherent sweetness balanced by meaty wild mushrooms, red chili and toasted chestnuts. These miniature cabbages could convert an angry mob of brussels sprouts haters into an army of devout followers. Finally, flawlessly seared scallops ($14) lathered with nutty, brown butter, were creatively paired with sweet grapes, a cashew puree and roasted cauliflower. Nearly defeated by the savory portion of the meal, a few plush, warm sugar cookies ($7) off the dessert menu provided a light finish to a hearty meal.
Rife with uninhibited, ambitious flavors, the menu at Stateside is both inventive and accessible, matched by an excellent whiskey, wine and beer selection. The masterminds behind Stateside have a knack for taking unassuming ingredients and giving them a starring role with the help of surprising supporting components. Regardless, Stateside’s status as one of Philadelphia’s most notable restaurants is well within this kitchen’s grasp.
Ed note: Sabatino announced his last day at Stateside will be March 11th. He is planning to start his own restaurant.
