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As we hurried inside from a hushed street, Kanella warmly welcomed us in from the cold (pun intended). My ears were instantly flooded with the sounds of pleasant conversation coming from the tables of hipsters and old folk neatly settled in the petite space. The cozy ambiance of this BYO is reflected in its simple decor: brick walls, wooden tables and whitewashed arches are reminiscent of the Mediterranean. Our gracious waiter explained to us that Sunday nights are unique at Kanella; instead of its normal menu, the restaurant hosts a three–course prix fixe Sunday Meze consisting of dishes specially created by chef and owner Konstantinos Pitsillides. We ordered both the meat ($35) and vegetarian ($30) options so we could taste all the offerings.
We were stoked when the waiter brought out complimetary sourdough bread with a lentil spread, tabouli and pickled vegetables—so good and flavorful that they vanished in the blink of an eye. Our mouths watered as ourfirst course was set down: an assortment of small plates that included fried loom cheese, braised chicken, chickpea fritters and pork sausage. Oh man, the sausage was spectacular—tender meat infused with richspices and accompanied with an airy lavender sauce. The spice–dusted, crispy–skinnedfritters, sitting atop a bed of piquant diced tomatoes were another hit, reminding us of a thick steak fry. With the arrival of our entrees, I realized Kanella loves parsley—nine of the 11 dishes we were served with this verdant garnish. Apricot and fig skewers, baked Chinese eggplant, calamari stew, veal flank, an egg scramble, pork ribs and beet falafel rested on the table. We were surprisingly enamored by the beet falafel with hummus. The majestic magenta inside was smooth and the exterior crispy.
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The winner of the night, though, was the pork ribs. The crispy–skinned meat, drizzled with a pork demi–glaze, fell right off the bone. We’re still depressed that there were only two; we could’ve had a dozen more. “The dessert is the most underrated part of the meal,” our waiter disclosed. He picked two favorites for us: a walnut tart and lemon mousse. The tart, consisting of walnuts packed atop a thin doughy crust, tasted like it was covered in maple syrup without any stickiness. The mousse was too tangy for my taste, overpowering the light–textured dish. We left Kanella satisfied, thankful to have enjoyed a wide array of inventive dishes far removed from the cycle of humdrum foods we are used to consuming on campus. We made a reservation for next Sunday’s Meze, eager for a fresh taste of Chef Pitsillides’ invention.
