Magpie 1622 South St. Gayborhood (267) 519–2904
Don't Miss: Butterscotch Bourbon Pie Skip: Pumpkin Praline Pie $
This season, pie is the new cupcake. At least, that’s what the people behind South St.'s Magpie Pie Company are betting. Billed as an “artisan pie boutique,” Magpie opened for business on September 1st. Savory or sweet, spicy or sugar–dusted, steaming or chilled, Magpie’s homemade fillings run the gamut from hearty stews to fluffy mousses. The crusts flake into buttery, paper–thin shavings in just the right way, tough enough to add chew and soft enough to melt in your mouth. Is Philly ready for comfort food by the slice?
Magpie sits between 16th and 17th St., a charming storefront with two large windows centered around the door and potted purple flowers on the stoop. The décor is somewhere between modern comfort and antique chic. The tables are white marble slabs, each topped with a white, flickering candle. Slow, jazzy standards play gently in the background. Patterned yellow wallpaper and a vintage–looking orange loveseat contribute to the feeling of a cozy, romantic living room that's warm without being stuffy. Carefully arranged knick–knacks populate the shelves behind the bar: blue glass jars, old books, a porcelain cow figurine. There are silver pie plates hanging in a spiral pattern on the back wall; in the front, instead of a wreath, there’s a bird’s nest with three speckled eggs huddled in its middle, a nod to the shop’s avian namesake.
The menu is displayed on a chalkboard, where the flavors are handwritten in tall, spindly letters. Savory options for fall include the Black Bean Chorizo Chili Pot Pie ($8) — a round, personal–size serving was finished with a dollop of sour cream and a sliver of jalapeno. The chili (with tomatoes and corn) could be spicier, but the Fritos and shredded cheddar more than make up for it. The Smoked Gouda Butternut Squash Pie ($8) is rich but not heavy: a tasty tower of breaded squash, spinach and cheese that is perfect for cool autumn days.
On the sweet side, do not miss the Butterscotch Bourbon Pie ($5). The Pear Ginger Crumble ($5) is a nice choice if you’re looking for something light and fruity, and the Pumpkin Praline Pie ($5) could use some oomph. But the butterscotch bourbon, as Inquirer restaurant critic Craig Laban pointed out recently, gives Barbuzzo’s famous Caramel Budino a run for its money. It’s glassy vanilla–caramel custard shaded with just a hint of whiskey.
In a town ruled by cupcake trucks and fro–yo bars, maybe it’s time to make space at the table for a slice of good old–fashioned American pie.
