Seafood Unlimited 270 S. 20th St. Rittenhouse (215) 732–3663
Don't Miss: Seafood Cobb Salad Skip: Chicken Satay $$$
A long, narrow hole in the wall, Seafood Unlimited rests inconspicuously on 20th and Spruce, just a few restaurants over from Audrey Claire. A low–key, casual restaurant, the atmosphere adopts an “under–the–sea” vibe with its blue–tinted lighting and ultramarine–tiled mosaic walls; though in contrast with the intended club–like vibe, the lack of music makes for a somewhat awkward ambience. Although the intimate layout certainly suits a date or adventure night with family and friends, I can’t say the food is worth the trip across town.
Recently renovated and re–opened by owners David and Judi Einhorn, Seafood Unlimited boasts a new array of seafood dishes served American/Mexican–style, a revamped larger bar and an improved setup. As they claim (“our philosophy is simple: understand the neighborhood and you’ll understand the product you need to provide") they certainly do aim to please. Notably welcoming and accommodating, they advised my group of four in what to order from the page–long menu, surprising us with a few extra appetizers to sample. Ultimately settling on four appetizers and three entrées, we did our best to join the clean plate club. We went for the Mini Lobster Roll ($10), Seafood Empanadas ($8), Calamari Stuffed with Crabmeat ($7.50), Panko–crusted Seabass ($22), Gnocchi Jumbo Shrimp ($18), Sautéed Scallops and Mushrooms over Rice ($22).
Initially, my growling stomach was more than prepared to devour some of Center City’s “freshest fish”; though with the arrival of our dishes, I found the freshness of the seafood to be debatable, given the cold tinge and artificial flavor. The lobster, crabmeat and scallops tasted as if they were canned, the fried seabass was overcooked and overpowered by the unmistakable tang of butter, and the scallops’ excessively sweet sauce seemed to overcompensate for its lack of flavor. Already biased because I am no fan of gnocchi, it didn’t help to eagerly dive into a bowlful of more or less raw pasta. And the chicken? I’m not sure if it was chicken. I'd probably recommend playing it safe with the Seafood Cobb Salad.
Instead of dining at Seafood Unlimited, I suggest you make the trip to pick up some uncooked fresh fish (which the restaurant sells), and prepare it yourself — just as was custom in 1971, when the space was just a humble fish market with only five communal tables.
