Paesano's 1017 S. 9th St. South Philly (215) 440–0371
Don't Miss: The Arista Skip: Pat's and Geno's 0 - $10 per person
Hey, do you know what you want yet?” asked the thoroughly–tattooed man standing behind the counter. He turned around to address the griddle, and with one swift gesture, flipped a beautifully charred, sumptuously fatty piece of sausage onto a sesame–studded roll. At Paesano’s in Northern Liberties, the line between the front and the back of the house has comfortably blurred, evaporating along with the steam that steadily rises from the sizzling hunks of meat. There is no man behind the curtain here; instead, it is a home for the Lost Boys and the Bad News Bears of the culinary world.
“Um, sure,” I lied unconvincingly. I scrambled to decide between the brisket and the spicy chicken, a daunting choice for any fair–weather carnivore. I went with the brisket. “I’ll take a Paesano ($8), an Arista ($8) and a Zawzeech($8).” I grabbed a seat at the counter and, after adding a root beer ($2) to my order, contemplated the stunningly chaotic symphony of cooking that followed.
My senses were engulfed in a deluge of sounds, smells and colors. A well–worn pan was tossed roughly onto the stove, ready to heat bowls of creamy clam chowder and endure endless orders of Paesano’s famous “potatoes arrosto.” The soft, spongy insides of warm rolls were hollowed out, making way for the pounds of succulent meats, roasted vegetables, tangy sauces and fried eggs that would later climb aboard. As my eyes, ears and nose indulged, my taste buds tingled with envy. Finally, three colossal sandwiches were sent my way, and my patience was rewarded as I anxiously peeled back the wrappers.
Roasted suckling pig, topped with spicy Italian long hots, broccoli rabe coated in melty provolone cheese and nestled in a fresh roll, compose what is inarguably one of the best bites I’ve had while eating my way through Philadelphia. It doesn’t stop there. Next, the complex layering of decadent, savory brisket, sweet tomatoes and a fried egg can only be described as extraordinary. For an equally ethereal finale: sweet lamb sausage, draped with caramelized onions and peppers and sharp cheeses. In a city flooded with rusty hoagie joints, Paesano’s manages to locate a new source of inspiration for this timeless classic, serving magnificent “Philly–style sandwiches with Italian inspiration” and pleasing some of the nation’s most discerning hoagie critics. If this is the new Philly style, then I guess I’m here to stay.
