UNDERDOGS 132 S 17th St. (215) 665–8080
Don't Miss: Classic chili dogs Skip: The plain hot dog — boring is as boring does
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Underground on 17th Street, the oddly alluring Underdogs presents a unique spin on classic Americana, using pop art and savory sausages to express their tagline — “The food revolution is at hand.” Primary colors and Rosie the Riveter–esque images are splashed across the walls; you feel at Underdogs as if you’re actually doing America a solid by eating here.
The menu too is painted across the top of a wall and offers a wide range of luxury hot dogs, which, despite its sound, is not an oxymoron. And although it’s not the highest–brow of restaurants, with its old style ketchup bottles and plastic serving trays, Underdogs gives off an easygoing vibe without overdoing the retro tchotchkes and decor.
Each hot dog is 100% beef and can be ordered on its own ($3.25–$4.50) or as a combo meal with fries and a drink ($6.25–$7.50). The fries alone are worth the trip. Sea–salted, prepared fresh and served with a variety of dipping sauces, including peanut sauce, wasabi and sriracha mayo, the fries pack a lot of punch.
The hot dogs, however, are the true magnum opus of this easily overlooked hole–in–the–wall. They’re pretty much your standard links, a sausage of ample length and girth, delivered to your table by a friendly staff on a soft white bun. But with names like Warsaw Packed and California Dreamin', the dogs are each distinctive and, in some cases, slightly unusual in their toppings. I sampled The Michigan, piled with beef chili, cheddar, chopped onions and mustard and the Perro Caliente, which was topped with pico de gallo, jalapenos, sour cream and chocolate cayenne mole. For a chili dog, The Michigan was refreshing, arranged in such a way that none of the toppings or bun overwhelmed the others. The Perro Caliente, while intriguing in its uniqueness and worth a try, put me off a little with its combination of chocolate and jalapenos. Underdogs is not a restaurant for picky eaters, as most of its hot dogs — like the My Thai decorated with papaya and peanut sauce — tend to push the boundaries of conventional toppings.
If you’re not one for beef, the restaurant does offer a variety of turkey, lamb and chicken dogs, as well as the ability to substitute a vegan dog for any of the standard combinations. The Tryp ($4.50), a turkey sausage topped with stuffing, gravy and cranberry relish, offers an appetizing take on Thanksgiving while the Back in the Day ($4.50) introduces the possibility of a fish hot dog.
Open until 4 a.m. on weekends, Underdogs certainly caters to a clientele of drunken college students and late night wanderers looking for a cheap meal. But being cheap doesn’t mean it’s not worthwhile. Underdogs will definitely have you coming back for more.
