Russet 1521 Spruce St. (215) 546–1521
Don't Miss: Cotechino Sausage Ravioli Skip: Duck Confit–Stuffed Cabbage
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Tucked unassumingly in the first floor of a brownstone on 15th and Spruce is Russet, a quaint new locavore BYOB. The concept behind the restaurant is simple: use locally sourced ingredients of the highest quality to create straightforward, flavorful dishes influenced by Italian and French cuisine. The ambiance is equally uncomplicated, with an open dining room and wooden tables perched against cream and burgundy walls. Small, antique picture frames and candlesticks adorn the sparsely–decorated space and the only sign of opulence is the dazzling glass chandelier that hangs above the center of the room. The ambiance is quaint and relaxed, buzzing with the subdued conversations of the pre–theater crowd that has become a fixture at the restaurant. While the average diners seemed to be around 45 years old, the music playing was more in line with someone in their twenties — Dr. Dog, Bright Eyes and Feist all made regular appearances, probably due to the influence of the friendly and attentive wait–staff.
The menu is printed on brown paper and changes daily, so the selection is small but varied. While we waited for our food, homemade spelt bread and fresh butter were brought out. From the first bite, Russet rang true to its motto: the bread was earthy and the butter more flavorful than any I’d ever tasted. The meal started on a harmonious chord of high notes: the veggie–friendly heirloom carrot and pea sformato ($9), slightly denser than a souffle, was beautiful to look at and even more beautiful to eat, with reduced, aged balsamic really bringing out the depth of the veggies' natural flavors. Yet the standout dish was the cotechino sausage ravioli ($10), served in sage butter and topped with Parmigiano Reggiano. With each bite, layers of flavor seemed to build in my mouth, culminating in a truly delightful explosion of rich, buttery goodness.
A few entrees slightly missed the mark because they were overcomplicated. The duck confit–stuffed cabbage ($26), while packed with deep flavors, lacked an acidic note to balance the richness of the duck, cabbage sprouts, roasted parsnips and cheese–covered mashed potatoes. The prime beef leg alla Milanese ($28) played it simpler: perfectly breaded and fried, the quality and freshness of the meat gave it a depth of flavor you won’t find in your average steak. Topped with a (slightly overcooked) fried egg and brioche–stuffed, bacon–wrapped celery (a truly genius combination), this dish was more exciting and more balanced.
Russet continued redeeming itself with dessert: the bittersweet chocolate budino, a dense cake that melts in your mouth when paired with sun–dried cherries and port–infused cream, was nothing short of glorious. The Pink Lady apple mille–feuille with butterscotch custard and almond nougatine was thin, crisp and delicious. Russet carries its commitment to quality ingredients all the way through to its coffee, which is fair–trade, organic and (in my dining partner’s awestruck words) provides “one of the greatest cups of espresso in the city.”
Russet elevates BYO cuisine to a new level, and it’s the perfect setting for a date. Like its namesake potato, Russet is simple, earthy and honest, but this doesn’t prevent the food from packing loads of flavor.
