The unassuming Las Bugambilias storefront at 2nd and South Streets would go unnoticed if not for a festively clad skeleton standing watch at the front door. This eye–catching hostess guides guests into a small but inviting dining room featuring a stately corner bar and walls of exposed brick. Black and white photographs of cinema starlets and a muted Mariachi soundtrack create an ambiance that is colorfully authentic, but not overwhelming. A word to the wise: while on weekday afternoons Las Bugambilias is quiet enough for walk–ins, reservations are recommended for large parties and weekend evenings.
Undecided due to the expansive menu (which includes breakfast offerings served all day), I took my server’s entree recommendation of Camarones Rellenos: bacon–wrapped jumbo shrimp stuffed with cheese, corn, zucchini and pumpkin blossoms ($19). I also added a serving of guacamole ($6) and a mango salad ($8) to the order.
The drink menu features inventive margaritas and other tequila–based drinks ranging from $8–10, which I passed up in favor of a house–brewed iced tea ($2).
The guacamole, served with homemade tortilla chips, proved to be a great value: generous amounts of fresh avocado balanced with just enough lime and cilantro. The mango salad, however, I could have done without. Although the dish was attractively plated and accompanied by a strawberry garnish and toasted sesame seeds, the mango vinegrette was surprisingly heavy, and the red onion and queso blanco were not enough to balance the too–sweet dressing.
When the main course arrived, the serving size alone was enough to make me wish that I had skipped my first course. Although five jumbo shrimp are, in theory, not all that intimidating of a portion, the combination of shellfish and the meat and cheese filling made this entree a small feast.
In what I can only call a unique twist on a surf and turf, the salt and crunch of the bacon paired wonderfully with the tender and sweet shrimp. The stuffing was not overwhelming, but held the dish together with a dash of color and just the right amount of cheese. Although the menu did not advertise the dish’s tomato–based chipotle sauce, I was pleasantly surprised by the flavors and the added dash of spice. Unable to polish off my meal, I bagged up tomorrow’s lunch with a forlorn glance at the dessert menu, which includes churros, flan, tres leches cake and Mexican hot chocolate (all around $5).
For those who can bring their healthy appetites past Jim’s Steaks, Las Bugambilias is a retreat from the cacophony of South Street that offers a successful twist on traditional Mexican flavors at a modest price.
Las Bugambilias 148 South St. (215) 922–3190 Skip: the salads Don’t Miss: guacamole, camarones rellenos $$$$$
