Right off of Rittenhouse, Spread Bagelry is a mix between an urban cafe and a cozy farm kitchen. The retro tile floor and exposed brick walls lend the place the air of a Parisian cafe, and the mismatched tables and bright red chairs outside make for great people–watching. The food, too, remains homey and simple.
The handwritten chalkboard menu is short, featuring a few different bagels, sandwiches and melts. In the true old–fashioned Montreal style, bagels at Spread are hand–rolled, boiled in honey water and baked in a brick oven. The method seems gimmicky, but Spread may be on to something fun. Here, you won’t find any of the perfectly–shaped cushy bagels that Einstein hawks.
Spread’s are irregular, almost twisted, with a rustic, hand–baked look. The flavors are basic — plain, sesame, poppy, everything, wheat and a “sweet daily special” ($2 each) — and spreads are all homemade. Though the selection of cream cheeses is limited, patrons can choose a local Amish–made variety ($1 extra), fresh butter or jam ($1), seasonal berry or veggie spread ($2) and smoked salmon ($3).
I had the “sweet daily special” bagel — cinnamon raisin — which arrived in a little basket. I found the Montreal style slightly chewy, with a wheaty taste with just a touch of sweetness. The cream cheese was rich and had an authentic dairy taste that I enjoyed. To my disappointment, the coffee was average, a bottomless La Colombe blend for $2. Tea, fresh juice and various bottled drinks are better options.
Melts are chosen on a whim each morning and look like something whipped up in a country kitchen — picture untidy bagels topped with curling pieces of Black Forest ham or tomato slices and melted Gruyere cheese ($3). Sandwich choices are limited too, though they’re not your run–of–the–mill deli creations. The Classic ($9) includes smoked salmon or whitefish salad; the Club ($9) is turkey with cheddar, Granny Smith apples, bacon and honey mustard mayo; and the egg white sandwich features swiss, spinach, wild truffle mushrooms and turkey bacon ($7).
Though it can’t quite match the variety and ubiquity of Einstein or Au Bon Pain, the charm and artistry of Spread is something you’ll be hard–pressed to find elsewhere. The star of the show here is the bagel, and for that, it’s well worth the trip downtown.
Spread Bagelry 262 South 20th St. (215) 545-0626 $$$$$ Don’t miss: sweet daily special bagel, Skip: the coffee
