A new bar/restaurant, Blue Bear Tavern was in the works for almost a year, raised up from the group behind pizza joint, Zavino. After a soft opening for the last few weeks, the spot opened officially on October 14. Overpriced pub food is all the rage of late. I expected more of the same from Blue Bear, and in terms of gastropub fare both expensive and mediocre, that's what I got. I will give Blue Bear this: it’s a cool spot to hang out with friends. The bar has high plush booths, some run–of–the–mill tables in the back, exposed brick — chicks love exposed brick — and low light fixtures that provide a comfortable tavern feel. The restaurant was immaculately clean and well–staffed, and our waiter was conversational and jovial. But the menu, despite weeks of maturation, remains limited. We chose from just three appetizers, four sandwiches and five larger plates. And for a self–proclaimed “tavern,” we weren’t so compelled to imbibe. The Honey–Rye Sour ($10), a honey infused rye whiskey with lemon juice, was unimpressive. And considering the extensive selection of local and seasonal beers available in Philly, Blue Bear’s beer list is less than adventurous. There’s dissonance between their attempted upscale food menu and, say, Coors Light on tap. Still, the biggest disappointment was the food. We started with a few “snacks” (all at $3) — pimento cheese, salami and toast — and an order of chicken wings and coleslaw ($8). The pimento cheese was no more than a spruced–up cream cheese and the salami tasted unrefined, like Lunchables. We would have prefered a wild charcuterie in honor of the restaurant’s beastly name. At least the chicken wings were light and crispy, served with two sauces: a poorly named “zesty barbecue” (really more sweet and sour), and a complex buffalo sauce that actually sparked a few “oohs” — the diamond in the rough. But five chicken wings for eight dollars is kind of ridiculous. And the coleslaw was dry and flavorless. We were somewhat hopeful for the sandwiches and entrees, but found few redeeming qualities in any of the dishes. The BBQ chicken sliders ($3 each) had great flavor and texture, but arrived cold. The steak sandwich ($12) had nicely cooked slices of meat and featured a tasty mix of watercress and horseradish mayo, but also wasn’t hot. And for $12, the five–to–six bite sandwich didn’t even come with fries; we had to order them separately ($3). Our friendly waiter had recommended the pork Milanese ($17) for its size and flavor, so we trusted and ordered. It was certainly a better deal than the other dishes, but the taste was off. We all remarked that the thick–cut chop tasted like pig. Fish isn’t supposed to taste fishy and pork is not supposed to taste piggy. It was tender, but too greasy, and the accompanying salad was served directly on top of the oily chop, making the greens awkwardly warm. The roasted lemon vinaigrette didn’t do enough to cut through the unctuous pork. For a cool looking place, with an acceptably trendy concept, the food and drink just don’t match.
Blue Bear Tavern 216 S. 11th St. (215) 922–3427 Don’t miss: Buffalo wings Skip: Everything else $$$$$
