Though it’s a bit of a trek from campus, Village Belle is worth an excursion to Front Street in Queen Village for its lovely atmosphere and solid fare. New York restaurateur Joey Campanaro brings a fresh vibe, and successful remodel, to the space that was once the old–time Italian establishment Frederick’s. The restaurant feels welcoming, if not for the bubbly waitstaff and host, then for the comfortable red leather booths and chairs surrounding dark wood tables. Dim lamps, candles and open views of the quaint neighborhood become the crux of the decor.
Fortunately, Village Belle’s menu is accessible and unpretentious, offering what we determined to be upscale comfort food. We started with two of the chef’s favorite salads: the frico ($8) and the country ($9). The frico was a rather heavy “salad” of fried montasio cheese and potato topped with micro greens. Though clunky, it was still enjoyable. The country salad with bacon and bleu cheese was mouth–watering. The bacon chunks were the average man’s bacon bits on steroids: plump and juicy (you can never go wrong with bacon).
The tomato basil risotto ($14) is mixed with a soft burrata cheese and has a tremendous flavor but an even better texture. The cheese was soft and gooey, just the perfect combo. But sadly the sausage ravioli ($14) was disappointing. The sausage was punchy and complex, but the lemon and sage flavor was lost in the strong meat, and the pasta was too thin. The sage butter coating was really good on its own, but again lost.
Though already on the full side, we indulged in two entrees, salmon ($21) and chicken thigh ($17) and a side of butternut squash puree ($5). The chicken had a delightfully crispy skin and was well–cooked, tender and juicy, with a marsala glaze that was unassuming and perfectly flavored. An addition of onions and peppers added another element of flavor but mixed in even better with the mashed potatoes that lacked anything definitive. The salmon was cooked perfectly, but the flavors in the broth around it didn’t stand up to the strong taste of a fish–like salmon. And the vegetables (artichokes and mushrooms) were also lost on the plate, just adding some neutrally colored platform to display the fish. But surprisingly the butternut squash — accented by brown sugar — was heavenly.
The desserts held their own among the strong courses and satisfied our sweet teeth. Presented simply, the root beer float ($7) was great for its nostalgia. Our waiter poured a local root beer into an icy goblet of vanilla ice cream — so classy! The homestyle flavors didn’t hurt either. But the pumpkin panna cotta ($7) stood out. Bits of almond toffee and syrup helped to make this dessert simple and strong, a great autumn dish.
As a newcomer, Village Belle has a lot to prove to Philly’s foodies, but with strong flavors and a phenomenal atmosphere, this Front Street bistro may just be the perfect date restaurant.
Village Belle 757 S. Front St. Don’t Miss: Tomato basil risotto and frisee salad Skip This: Sausage Ravioli $$$$
