So-so Indian specialties at streetcar prices
Tucked between rowhouses and Jefferson Hospital lies a little hint of northern India. Mumbai Bistro (formerly Shinju Sushi) opened in late July and has since been serving up Americanized Indian cuisine. Despite the lackluster appearance and fast food-like atmosphere, the rotating menu satisfies customers’ cravings with quick, cheap Indian favorites and a BYOB option.
The modest $4.95/lb. buffet bar changes daily and offers a wide assortment of Indian cuisine, but opt out of the much-loved chicken tikka masala. This bland and watered-down version leaves even the most untrained palate bored. Instead, indulge in the chicken vindaloo for a more potent kick, although even this lacks some spice. Its thick sauce is the perfect lather for fluffy basmati rice ($1.50) and traditional, pita-like naan ($1). But the vegetable samosa ($2) is the shining star of the meal. Crispy on the outside and stuffed with a piping hot potato and pea blend, the samosa is an awesome addition to Mumbai Bistro’s menu.
Mumbai Bistro boasts gluten-free, lactose-free and vegan options. Channa masala — the most authentic-tasting dish on the menu — stands out with perfectly sautéed chickpeas and is a hearty mixer to the Mumbai Dal, a diluted stew that tastes like lentil water on its own. Paneer Masala provides dairy lovers with dainty cheese cubes tossed in a smooth tomato-based sauce. For diners with just one dish in mind, chicken and vegetable meals can be ordered individually for a 10 oz. serving ($4.99 and $3.99).
Be warned, the SEPTA ride to Mumbai Bistro is no journey to streets of its namesake, thus authenticity is somewhat lacking. The buffet is noticeably void of customary lamb, fish or beef options. But Kyle Saini, Mumbai Bistro's owner, takes pride in the set menu. Meals are made in small batches that taste fresh and come out of the kitchen often — a buffet rarity. This casual dining experience is a quick stop on a Center City trip and is a loose — yet overall satisfying — interpretation of traditional Indian cuisine. It serves the purpose of pleasing both the hospital crowd and the professional locals with a cheap, quick and pleasant dining experience.
MUMBAI BISTRO 930 Locust St. 215-418-0444 Don't Miss: Vegetable Samosa. Skip This: Chicken Tikka Masala.
