Walking into Olive on 3rd feels like entering the home of a well-traveled relative who’s extended a weekday invitation to dinner. In this case, the Society Hill house belongs to Christine Fischer, and this quirky BYO is truly a family affair. The warmly painted walls are decorated with paintings by Fischer’s father-in-law, the cooking is shared by her and her husband, and the front of the house is staffed by her children and mentees. The chiffon draped windows are set with vases of dried flowers, a world apart from the hustle of South Street located just steps away.
After being greeted like a member of the family, dinner starts with the signature Olive Bread, a homemade loaf made with a chickpea flour for texture and studded with a salty blend of each type of olive found on the menu.
We were steered towards the Fresh Apple and Date Fig Salad ($7), a luscious blend of indulgent figs and peppery arugula dressed with an orange-yogurt dressing, and the Signature Olive Salad ($7), a savory mix of olives, sundried tomatoes, and salty feta thoughtfully split onto separate plates for sharing. These inventive salads outshone the other starters on the menu, including the evening’s special Tuna Carpaccio (MP) whose paper-thin lightness was muddled by the salty preserved toppings of sundried tomato and capers, and the Filet on Rosemary Skewers ($8) which was fragrantly scented, but cooked to a doneness that required chewing until my Orbit-accustomed jaw ached.
I found myself sneaking envious bites of my vegetarian companion’s Mushroom Pasta ($12.5), made with wide ribbons of handmade pappardelle which eschewed a dip in plain water for careful blanching in white wine and salt. My own Chicken Chipotle atop a handmade tortilla ($11) had a nice heat from the chipotle peppers sent to Fischer from her mother-in-law in Mexico City, but was underwhelmed by its companions of curiously hard roasted potatoes and steamed broccoli.
A pan seared Striped Bass ($16) lacked the crisped skin I had been envisioning, but the fresh avocado pico de gallo paired beautifully with the moist fish. A dense and moist Triple Chocolate Cake and a cognac-infused Flan, both homemade, were just two features of a long list of desserts made in-house daily.
In a city where the designation of “BYO” can seem an invitation for jugs of Rossi or the pregame for a raucous outing, the relaxed setting of Olive is a pleasant reminder that this by-product of PCLB regulations can be an opportunity to enjoy your favorite bottle with dinner. Olive shines in its hospitality and service; you’ll leave with the spirit of the City of Brotherly Love.
