Sasha Petraske insists that making cocktails is not an art. “Everything’s been done,” he says, arguing that liquor drinks lack the subtlety of wine. “I’m not like a sommelier; you could devote your whole life to wine.” And yet, the Maloneys Swizzle he’s just concocted doesn’t help his argument. It’s a simple twist on the classic Mojito, with white rum, lime juice, sugar, mint, and peychaud bitters, which sink in a bright red mist from the top of the drink. And it’s delicious.
Petraske made a name for himself as a cocktail consultant in New York and owner of acclaimed cocktail lounge Milk & Honey. His pedigree and dedication to sophisticated simplicity — he sticks to basic, high-quality ingredients and eschews any sort of flavored vodka — were exactly what Stephen Starr wanted for the Ranstead Room. This private, upscale bar backs up to Starr’s new restaurant, El Rey, and is accessible only through a door marked with two R’s on alley-like Ranstead St.
The first thing one is likely to notice about the room is how dim it is; light is kept to a mood-setting minimum. The relatively small space is divided between the bar, which seats about ten, and an area of tables flanked by red leather banquettes that seat at most one or two people per side. The darkness of the décor — flocked wallpaper, polished wood, — is punctuated by soft spotlights, mirrored gold tiles in the alcoves behind the bar, paintings of nudes, and vintage lamps. The low music is complemented by the murmur of conversation and the clinking of glasses.
Obviously, this is not the place to pound back Yuenglings with ten friends. But Starr’s Creative Director Randi Sirkin is quick to assert that the Ranstead Room is just as much for college students as it is for anyone else. “It’s about the drinks and who you’re with,” she says. And certainly, though we Penn students are known for our rowdier tastes, we also enjoy good conversation and quality food and drink.
The 10-cocktail menu runs from $8-$10 and is perfect for both conservative and more adventurous palates. The spicy bite of the Palma Fizz ($9; vodka, ginger and lime juices, sugar, soda, and rose water) is ideal for ginger lovers; the Piquin Cocktail ($8; blanco tequila, chili piquin, lemon juice, sugar), a Petraske original, has an even more pronounced kick. A personal favorite is the Applejack “75” ($10; applejack, lemon juice, sugar, champagne). The flavors are in perfect balance, each asserting itself without overpowering any of the others and creating just the right amount of sweetness.
A limited small plates menu, which draws from the selection at El Rey, complements the cocktails. Though the Mexican fare seems slightly out of place, its quality silences any protest. Of special note are the gorditas ($8), whose tender pork pibil, corn masa, and hard boiled egg play off each others’ respective softness. The egg adds just the right note to the flavorful meat.
The Ranstead Room is a much-needed addition to the Penn bar radar. Next time you feel like sipping slowly, truly enjoying a drink, and sharing that experience with someone else, head to 20th and Ranstead.
The Ranstead Room
2013 Ranstead St.
Don’t Miss: the Applejack “75”
Bottom Line: A truly wonderful drinking experience.
