Jose Garces has set a relatively stellar precedent with each of his gastronomic ventures in Philadelphia. It therefore seemed safe to assume that fireworks would be imminent as we strolled into Garces Trading Company. But fireworks, there were not. Though there were some standout dishes on offer, others were in definite need of revision.
GTC is a gourmet market-cum-cafe whose wooden tabletops and white tiles create a casual ambience. Although GTC doesn’t take reservations, the Friday afternoon wait was minimal. After a brief stroll around the deli stalls, we sat down and excitedly perused the extensive menu.
The personable wait staff advised us on how best to sample a bit of everything. We opted for the chef’s selections of cheeses ($15) and charcuterie ($20), each of which came in a well-balanced combination of three. Feeling a particular inclination to sample some Spanish fare, we also ordered sides of Serrano Ham ($8) and Manchego cheese ($6). The cheeses came with white sangria honey, cherry fig marmalade and a pistachio currant salbitxada. The cheeses were a delightful mix and were well complemented by their accompaniments. It was, however, the meats that proved truly outstanding, particularly the Serrano ham, which was dry-cured to perfection. The ham was delightfully accented by the Baby Artichokes ($7), bathed in a lemon, honey and almond nage.
The unfortunate undoing of such a pleasant meal came in the form of the hot main dishes. Though enticed by the menu’s selection of deep-dish and flatbread pizzas made with duck fat, we were ultimately disappointed. The Verde pizza ($12), made with ricotta, spinach, chevre, green asparagus, arugula and fava beans, should have been a fairly fresh and summery meal. However, the panoply of strong flavors left the pizza tasting awkwardly bitter, and the thin crust failed to neutralize the flavor.
Hoping to counter the disappointment of the pizza, we ordered the Butternut Agnolotti (small plate, $18). Although the butter-poached lobster, sage cream and hazelnut were surprisingly not too heavy, there was ultimately nothing exceptional about this dish.
The desserts somewhat made up for the rather lackluster main course. The Passionfruit Banana Mousse ($6), which we ordered alongside a Seasonal Strawberry Tart ($6), was fantastic, with a pleasing texture. The tart was similarly excellent.
The somewhat schizophrenic meal is perhaps indicative of GTC’s general aesthetic. I'm unsure as to whether the market really attracts any customers other than those emerging from their dining experiences. Though it is a BYOB, it also features an in-house wine store, with an expert sommelier at hand to help diners pick out a bottle.
Ultimately, GTC is a great place to grab a bottle of wine, dine on some gourmet cheese and charcuterie, and while away three hours. But be wary of adventuring too much on the menu, as you might find yourself a little disappointed.
1111 Locust St.
(215) 574-1099
Don’t Miss: The Serrano ham
Skip: Any hot plate ...
