Thoreau restaurant's unassuming facade reflects both its homey atmosphere and hearty cuisine. Local food shines on the menu, with one conspicuous absence: meat. Thoreau is a self-proclaimed product of the local and organic food movement, and Chef Mike Jackson prides himself on his vegetarian fare.
The restaurant attracts an older, artsy, post-hippie crowd, but the eatery is great for couples or groups of 6 or fewer. Simple art adorns the light blue walls, and the exposed ductwork adds a modern flare to the modestly decorated dining room. If you’re a BYO-kind of diner, visit soon, because they have a liquor license pending.
My dining companion and I were first served homemade focaccia with ancho-chili butter. The acidity of the lemon and subtle kick of the chili in the butter were nice touches, but the snack would have been much-improved by a simple warming of the bread.
After reviewing the menu of appetizers (~$10), salads ($10.50), and “casual” starters ($14-18), we decided on the sliders, which boasted a yellow tomato and avocado salad, Manchego cheese and basil aioli on toasted brioche.
Words actually failed us after we took our first bites of the little buns. We both agreed it was the best appetizer we'd ever had. No ingredient stood out; everything just hit a harmonious note. The tomato was fresh, the avocado cool and ripe, the cheese warm and the basil delicate. The accompanying Belgian fries, however, fell short. Although well-seasoned, they were a little greasy and even slightly chalky. Still, we licked our fingers and anxiously awaited dinner.
While Chef Jackson dubs his menu “new American vegetarian fare,” the list of entrees ($20-22) reflects inspiration from Indian, Asian, and Latin cuisines. The price may seem high for vegetarian food, but the waitress assured us that the portions were generous and we wouldn’t leave hungry. I selected the wild mushroom risotto while my friend ordered the Blue Plate, featuring purple Okinawa sweet potatoes, a corn-avocado-edamame succotash, and shiitake mushrooms in a sweet gravy.
We both awarded our plates full points for presentation. Overall, however, we found the main dishes disappointing. The gravy on the Blue Plate was a highlight, a wonderful marriage of tangy and savory, but the potatoes were a little dry and the succotash lacked texture. The risotto was flavorful and rich but a little overpowering. Our waitress was right — not even my friend, who is a bottomless pit, could finish. We could hardly glance at the menu of desserts (~$7).
Thoreau has mastered the appetizers, salads, and casual fare, but the chef needs to work some kinks out of the entree menu. However, the restaurant is a great addition to an otherwise lacking vegetarian dining scene.
Thoreau 1033 Spring Garden St. (617) 412–6178 Don't miss: The sliders Skip: The entrees
