An unassuming diner counter lined with a few stools sits underneath two large chalkboards with sandwich options scrawled across it. Welcome to Paesano’s. There’s nothing fancy about this Fishtown sandwich shop, but it manages to serve up some of the best meals in the city.
Certainly the best sandwiches north of Market Street, Paesano’s relocates some traditionally South Philly charm and delicious Italian flavors. Affiliated with critically acclaimed Italian BYOB Modo Mio, Paesano’s offers tried and true favorites as well as some new twists. The Paesano ($8) — beef brisket, roasted tomato, ricotta, horseradish mayo and a fried egg on a long roll — offers a surprising mix of flavors. The horseradish mayo packs a punch, enhancing the lightly seasoned brisket, and the fried egg adds a surprising texture to the already moist meat. The roasted tomatoes were lost in the mix, adding a soggy element but not much flavor.
An Italian hoagie with sharp provolone, sweet and hot peppers, arugula, tomato, onion and a little bit of oil known as the Daddy Wad ($7) is a little more manageable. With none of the sogginess of the Paesano, the mix of meats and cheeses is spicy and savory — and unlike many delis, you can get all of it in your mouth at one time! The sandwiches are of manageable size, filled to the brim but not bursting; making the dining experience neater than one might expect.
But perhaps the crown jewel of Paesano’s offerings is the Arista. Named the second best meal under $10 in the country by Bon Appetit magazine, this $8 sandwich adds a point to the scoreboard for those who think roast pork sandwiches are the true sandwich of Philadelphia. This answer to the cheesesteak consists of roasted suckling pig, broccoli rabe and Italian long hots. The man behind the counter will probably suggest you add sharp provolone (you should). Accompanied by jus, the Arista will reinvent the way you see sandwiches — you’ll never say the words “whiz wit” again.
While the limited menu skews towards meat (other offerings include Italian sausage, lamb, tuna and chicken sandwiches), vegetarians are not out of luck. The Giardina ($8) includes roasted eggplant with fennel, peppers, fresh mozzarella and homemade basil pesto. As much attention is paid to the eggplant as to the meats — it is carefully seasoned and perfectly roasted, with not a mushy bite to be found. The Panelle ($4) presents a Sicilian chickpea pancake topped with roasted tomato and fennel.
Come hungry — while the sandwiches aren’t gargantuan they demand a hearty appetite and don’t make for great leftovers. If you know what you want, order ahead. The line can stretch out the door and they have been known to run out of bread on busy days.Venture north for a culinary adventure — it puts Pat’s, Geno’s and Koch’s (yes, I said it), to shame.
Paesano’s
152 W. Girard Ave.
(267) 886-9556
Don’t miss: Daddy Wad
Skip: the Paesano Check out: the newest Paesano’s outpost
at 901 Christian St.
