On the corner of 13th and Sansom streets sits a tiny wine bar with a gas-fired brick oven and chalkboard menus on the wall. Zavino has brought the so-called neo-Neapolitan-style pizza to Philadelphia, served with a side of social consciousness. Chef Steve Gonzalez is dutifully opposed to processed sugar, chemical preservatives and paying for long-haul freight charges. He therefore stays local as much as he can, ensuring everything — and we mean everything — is made in-house: pizza dough and sauce, desserts and even the syrup base and sparkling water for their Italian sodas. Once they get their liquor license, Zavino will serve a wide range of locally brewed beer in addition to their impressive winelist.
The menu’s list of appetizers includes gnocchi, a plethora of international cheeses, sliced cured meats served alone on a small plate ($6), and a range of seasonal vegetables (each at $5), cooked but served cold. The pizzas, of course, are the star of the show, and with options between $8 and $12, you can afford to skip SEPTA and treat yourself to a cab ride downtown. My dining partner and I started with a plate of Baby Jesus, the most creatively named of the cured meats, and roasted romanesco garnished with balsamic vinegar, pine nuts and raisins. (For those who, like me, didn’t know what romanesco is, it’s a sort of green cauliflower with a mild flavor.) The appetizer was delicious but I was most excited about the pizza, especially as I was sitting by the oven and could see the cooks making it right in front of me.
I was not disappointed. The crust was everything I seek in a pizza: crispy on the bottom, chewy throughout, with a nice char around the edges that adds complexity to the flavor. We ordered a margherita ($10) and a kennett ($11), the latter being named after the town where the mushrooms are sourced. Bechamel sauce, fresh mozzarella, caramelized onions and rosemary accompanied these local mushrooms. The flavors were all so fresh that everything came through on every bite, and they all complemented each other perfectly. The subtle hint of rosemary present in the dish was a welcome addition, balancing the creamy bechamel and savory mushrooms. I was just as impressed by the margherita. The homemade sauce was sweet and slightly tangy, the cheese was spread to create the perfect proportion of sauce to cheese to crust on each slice. We finished with two desserts: the first was an unimpressive chocolate cake, the second, however, was a delicious pannacotta — light and not too sweet, it was the perfect complement to the French-pressed coffee — a blend made exclusively for Zavino by Chestnut Hill Coffee Company.
With excellent prices, great food, and top-notch service, Zavino is certainly a place worth visiting — more than once.
Zavino
112 S. 13th Street
(215) 732-2400
Don’t Miss: The kennett pizza
Skip: The chocolate cake
