Silken tofu is a slimy, viscous, textural disaster that dissolves so unpleasantly in your mouth, diners still try to solve the mystery of its intrigue. Despite my past experiences with this soy product, I too found myself drawn to the House Tofu ($9) prepared tableside. A small cast iron dome filled halfway with liquid soy milk and agaragar, a binding additive, undergoes a transformation fit for the bio lab. Six stirs and 10 minutes of indirect heat, the once milky liquid solidifies into smooth semi-solid dish, far from its mass produced cousin. Chef Hiroyuki “Zama” Tanaka proves to his patrons why silken tofu has its place on the dinner plate. Spooned into a small bowl immersed in a wild mushroom sauce, this surprising taste bud-pleaser leaves the palate craving more of Zama’s food.
Zama fills a gastronomic niche previously lacking in Philadelphia — modern Japanese. Skillfully utilizing modern cooking techniques and traditional flavor profiles, chef Tanaka creates a masterful meal, which focuses on detail and innovation. From the use of freshly ground wasabi to the sesame seed grinder, the eastern peppermill, Zama proves the minutia truly makes a dish. The wow factor from each bite emerges from the small tweaks, setting this Center City Japanese one cut above the rest.
Even simple seaweed, the Kaiso Salad ($7), a tricolore wakame with crunchy seaweed infused noodles, stands out. The alternating textures of the seaweeds with the surprisingly crispy translucent noodles come perfectly together with a citrus tazeo vinaigrette.
As the original chef at Pod who later rocked the Morimoto kitchen, Tanaka opens Zama with ample talent, definite vision and unique flare that places his gem at the apex of Philly dining. Splurge for the Surf N’Turf ($21), a shrimp tempura roll topped with seared kobe beef. The unexpected ponzu chimichuri adds a dimension beyond traditional Japanese flavors, and the floral notes from the attractive pink peppercorns rounds out the roll.
The Suzuki Sizzle-San ($16), a cucumber and asparagus rolled topped with striped bass served in a citrus yuzu and finished with a hot sesame oil packs in a lot of pucker. Feel free to indulge having been forewarned that the bottom of the roll, saturated in the strong dressing provides a real pow.
While the yellowtail, jalapeno and mango roll ($9) creates perfectly contrasting sweet-spicy flavors, Tanaka’s newest invention shines. For fans of spicy crunchy tuna, this sushi master’s Super Crunchy roll ($8, regular spicy crunchy tuna is $7) takes the meaning of crunch to a whole new level. A workout for your jaw, the ‘phase 1’ experimental roll should be a staple on the maki menu. The roll features a healthy portioned piece of spicy tuna, crispy shallots and traditional tempura flakes, but the specialty roll diverges from conventional crunchy rolls because it’s rolled in crispy puffed rice.
The Black cod Saikyoyaki ($24), a traditional miso marinated dish, comes beautifully plated. The marinade, thankfully lacks that sugary sweetness, often the downfall of so many replica dishes, allowing the tender moist flakes and crisped skin to take the front seat.
Take a seat at the sushi bar, or make yourself comfortable at one of the wooded tables. The sleek interior may evoke trendy, but Zama is far from a trend — it’s a keeper!
Zama
128 S. 19th St.
(215) 568-1027
Don’t Miss: Super Crunchy Roll
Skip: Suzuki Sizzle-San
