Han Dynasty owner Han Chiang likes ranking things. Every item on the menu is ranked on a scale of spiciness that ranges from unremarkable to burn-the-roof-of-your-mouth-off hot. The restaurant specializes in authentic Szechuan Chinese food, so when the menu says spicy, it means really, really spicy. I learned this the hard way by sampling the rabbit with peanuts in chili sauce ($9.95). A mere 5 out of 10 on the spicy scale, the rabbit still managed to be the ultimate example of what Han calls “pleasure pain.” What started as a delicious dish slowly evolved into scorching pain, to the point where Han offered to bring me a hose.
That may be the best part of the restaurant — its owner. The foul-mouthed proprietor, who has self-proclaimed ADD and says he owes everything to his mother, is currently the only server in his restaurant. However, if this makes service slow, you would never notice, because Han’s constant comedy routine will keep you cracking up throughout the meal. Whether he’s comparing his skin color to the yellow paint on the walls or making fun of customers who can’t deal with the spiciness of his dishes (much like myself), Han is pure entertainment.
The food itself is for the adventurous. Han prides himself on the authentic nature of his offerings, and if people want Americanized food, he tells them to go across the street. Some of the best dishes were the vegetarian options, including a starter of cucumbers in garlic sauce ($6.95) that made me rethink the way I look at these ordinarily boring vegetables. The spicy green bean noodles ($6.95) were another intruiguing option. Though grey in color and gelatinous in texture, they ended up being absolutely delicious. I would recommend these over the more conventional cold sesame noodles ($5.95), which lacked pazazz when contrasted to more original dishes. In general, it is the more exotic dishes that play to Han’s strengths. Skip the salt and pepper shrimp ($17.95), a 1 on the spicy scale and thus fairly boring, and go for the beef with scallions ($12.95) or the bean curd in garlic sauce ($10.95).
My best advice would be to go to Han’s Dynasty with several friends and share as many dishes as possible. That, and to make sure you have a full glass of water before trying anything above a 3 on the spicy scale.
Han Dynasty
108 Chestnut St.
(215) 922-1888
Don’t Miss: The cucumbers in garlic sauce,
Skip: The fermented rice balls dessert.
