Nestled in Old City is a quaint two-story brasserie. Opening the ivory and crimson-painted door reveals a ground floor bar that stretches further back than the light reaches, where patrons sip on a selection of 21 beers on tap. Upstairs, diners eat off copper-plated tables, atop which sit bottles of Gulden’s mustard, rather than that American staple, ketchup. A back chamber houses several coffins employed as surfaces off which to dine. The decor is charmingly morbid; the juxtaposition of light-hearted tavern chatter and funeral caskets makes sipping beers out of fine crystal goblets all the more enjoyable.
The menu is full of standard pub fare, including fried calamari ($9.99) and buffalo wings ($5.99). Most diners stick to casual meals, choosing from the restaurant’s assortment of hot sandwiches. But Eulogy does offer authentic Belgian-style cuisine including a variety of mussel dishes prepared in traditional sauces. Of course, the classic bierhaus staple, frietijes ($3.99), is in ample supply. The twice-fried potatoes are thick-cut and delightfully crispy, accompanied by a trio of house-made dips. The greasy grub pairs perfectly with robust Belgian ale, of which there is an endless selection. While the menu devotes only two pages to food, the list of bottled beers spans over 300 libations. The beers are organized alphabetically and classified according to alcohol content, country of origin, and style. The stock is truly impressive, and the knowledgeable and friendly staff is perfectly equipped to help you find a beer you’ll love. Eulogy is a Mecca for the ale enthusiast and boasts what is unquestionably the most diverse and comprehensive collection in the city. I was recommended the Malheur 12 and the Nostradamus by our server and was wholly pleased with the nutty malt of the former and sweet bite of the latter.
Filling up with beer, however, makes the heavy food less appetizing, though its appeal even to an empty stomach is questionable. The entree offerings are slim and limited to artery-clogging platters, like the Belgian fish and chips ($15.99) or the rib-eye steak ($20.99). Sampling the trio of sausages ($19.99) and the Duck Framboise yielded ambivalence. The duck, at its recommended temperature, was tough and flavorless, redeemed only by the tart fruit-flavored sauce. The accompanying seasonal vegetables were unidentifiably cubed and of an unappealing hue. The sausage, on the other hand, were surprisingly savory and well-matched by the piquant smashed potatoes and carrots.
Overall, the trip to Eulogy was satisfying as a drinking excursion, but wasn’t quite up to par as a fine dining experience. Perfect for a night of drinking, but a little awkward for a date. I’ll be back, not for the food, but to try the rest of the beers.
Eulogy Belgian Tavern
136 Chestnut St.
(215) 413-1918
Don’t miss: the incredible beer selection
Skip: the duck
