Friends, amigos, amis. No matter the language, the word "friends" has the same connotation. Marc Vetri’s newest addition to his notable empire, Roman-style trattoria Amis, embraces its name. Here, friendship defines the atmosphere. From the servers to the managers to Vetri himself, the Amis staff perpetuates the high standard of service critics expect at Vetri’s other lauded eateries. The fabulous food tastes even better when served in an amicable environment.
Reviewers often glaze over the “oiled machine” Vetri established, because his perfectly paired flavors outshine most in the city. But let it be noted, whilst Chef Marc Vetri may cook amazingly, he also trains his staff impeccably. The restaurant group employs an internal meritocracy, constantly promoting its employees from restaurant to restaurant. Patrons are welcomed by friendly faces each time they sit for an Italian feast.
On the subject of Italian feasts, the Amis meal certainly lives up to its high hopes. With such an established pedigree, Chef Brad Spence (Vetri alum and Colicchio protégé) and of course Vetri, diners set expectations few could meet, but this neighborhood gem meets them all. The small-plate-style dining makes Amis the perfect destination for sharing; you truly want a bite of each dish.
The bruschetta, served deconstructed, features crispy sesame bread toasted with herbed garlic oil. The crisp top layers give way to a soft middle, perfect for supporting mounds of any of the 5 Italian toppings: eggplant capponata ($6), ricotta and black pepper ($8), and snails alla Romana ($10) to name but three. The eggplant studded with pine nuts packs in an almost sweet tomato flavor. While eggplant can sometimes take on bitter tones and an unpleasant texture, the Amis team cooks the capponata to perfection. The texture of the creamy ricotta pairs perfectly with the crunchy herbaceous toasts.
Perhaps the ultimate dish of the evening, served garnish-less on a parsley-oiled dish, are the artichokes alla Giudaia ($10). The ultra-crispy outer petals give way to a savory well-cooked heart; the dish proves that simplicity can yield food that tastes just as good if not better than the most complex dishes.
If you are lucky enough to snag a seat at the bar overlooking chef de cuisine Brad Spence sautéing your evening’s grub, you’re in for a treat. While you enjoy the tender polpettine (small meatballs) atop tomatoed potatoes ($10), try to resist grabbing the tantalizing Belgium waffles on the countertop (after all, dessert comes at the end of the meal!).
The homemade pastas (all $14) will satiate any appetite. The rigatoni with swordfish and eggplant fries combines a variety of textures to create a delicious dish. Served in a metal All-Clad pan, the presentation makes you feel at home. The tender swordfish and surprising eggplant fries complement the perfectly-cooked rigatoni noodles.
As you polish off the tender lamb — cooked until it practically falls apart — and mop up the remnants of breadcrumb-crusted cauliflower with your bread, leave room for dessert. Indulge. Go for the waffles Amis, a warm and crispy Belgium waffle smothered in Nutella and topped off with a homemade vanilla semifreddo ($10). The warm waffle contrasted with the cool semifreddo completes any meal, but be warned: you may fight with your neighbor for the last bite. In the spirit of friends, Amis, do yourselves a favor and order a second round. Your taste buds will reward you, and your friends will surely love you.
