The wait is over. Old City’s beloved Little Fish, an establishment famed for its inspired seafood creations served in its sardine tin of a restaurant, has finally opened the doors to its eagerly anticipated Center City sister — aptly named Fish.
In keeping with its BYO forbearer, Fish confidently puts food first. While the décor and ambience manage to marry intimacy with an off-Rittenhouse buzz, it is not for these that schools of people will come. They will come for the fish.
Anchored to just one ingredient, the menu gets more creative than an Iron Chef Christmas Special. Hiramasa (yellowtail) with pear, cress and mustard seeds ($12), a skate wing perched atop truffled spaetzle with Parmesan broth and melted leeks ($21) and an octopus carpaccio beneath clementines and diced olives ($10) are some of the inventive offerings.
The execution of every dish we tried was flawless, even if the flavors were occasionally off the mark. One companion described the monkfish with butternut squash and curried mussel nage ($20) as “just like chicken noodle soup” — probably not what they were going for. The servings, in the now ubiquitous “sharing” style, might be great additions to a pre-Acapulco diet plan but may leave the more omnivorous feeling underwhelmed. Being conscious of this from the start, however, gives a good excuse to sample more. And sample you should.
The skate was phenomenal, as were the Maine scallops ($16), which were clearly raised by some character from a Brothers Grimm tale, for they were the plumpest and juiciest ever devoured. The oysters ($2 each), served with a refreshing tamari-cucumber mignonette and a beautifully presented lobster bisque ($10), were also popular choices. But the unexpected star of the night was the escolar with mashed turnips, carrots and chicken jus ($19). Continuing the Little Fish tradition of converting oft-underappreciated species into gastronomic delights, it was rich, buttery and perfectly suited to the season.
Much to my dismay, our waitress’s short-lived memory meant several plates never reached the table. Fortunately she remembered all of our desserts, each one more delectable than the next. The chocolate truffle torte with vanilla ice cream and port soaked grapes ($7) deserves a special shout out.
The few kinks at Fish will be ironed out quickly. When this happens, it should be bestowed King Triton’s crown for having the best of the ocean in Philly.
Fish
1708 Lombard St.
(215) 545-9600
Don’t Miss: escolar with mashed turnips, carrots and chicken jus
