I haven’t eaten a banana in over 16 years, but when a steaming plate of freshly baked banana bread studded with fresh fruit and sprinkled with powdered sugar is set in front of me, I swallow my prejudices, slather a slice with homemade whipped cream, and take a bite. Then a second, third and fourth.
I hereby declare myself a convert, thanks to Sam’s Morning Glory, a “finer diner” located at 10th and Fitzwater, two blocks south of South Street.
The creeping vines around the entrance gate and shouts of children from the playground across the street give the diner a neighborhood feel, while the bikes locked to every post on the block reveal it as a primo brunch destination.
The menu ranges from hearty breakfast platters (about $7-10) and playfully named “samwiches” to enticing selections of cakes, grains and breads ($5-9) and a few salads. Frittatas are a staple, and I chose a Southwestern-style special with hangar steak, jalapeños, tomatoes and Monterey Jack cheese. The light and airy frittata pairs wonderfully with the crispy cornbread and savory potatoes on the side.
One of my dining companions ordered the featured breakfast pizza, a six-layered tower of focaccia, potatoes, caramelized onions, breakfast meat, eggs and mozzarella cheese. The turkey sausage my friend selected had a nice kick, and I suggest cutting through the richness of the pizza with a healthy dose of the acidic yet sweet homemade ketchup, which is served in tall amber and green beer bottles.
We rounded out our order with a delectable plate of pomegranate and plum French toast, kicking our glucose levels back into high gear just as the freshly squeezed orange juice and banana bread were starting to wear off.
My only precaution: try to avoid a booth near the bar if you’re hungry, because the 15 minutes you wait for your food will be an excruciating parade of mouth-watering platters passing under your nose. But stick it out, because it will be worth it.
Morning Glory Diner 735 S. 10th St. (215) 413-3999 Don’t miss: Banana bread with fresh fruit Skip: Over-ordering, since portions are big and rich
