When I think of food in Philadelphia, cheesesteaks, Stephen Starr and the Italian Market immediately come to mind. One word that rarely comes up? Barbecue.
However, Smokin’ Betty’s is a pleasant addition to our Gino’s-lovin’ locale. Susan Schlisman, owner of Devil’s Alley and Sam’s Grill out in the suburbs, is trying her luck with a different cuisine at her new restaurant located at 11th and Sansom. Being a native Mississippian (only a short distance from Memphis), I like to think that I know barbecue, and Smokin’ Betty’s delivered a little taste of good ole home-cooked flavor.
The chic decor was an added bonus to our dinner. With two floors of seating, Smokin’ Betty’s can easily house 170 guests. Huge windows on both floors allow natural light and pleasant views to patrons and display the restaurant’s sleek wood floors and exposed brick to passers-by on the street. Cutely decorated chalkboards are displayed on both levels, listing food and drink specials and adding to the quaint southern charm.
An initial glance at the menu provides a vast array of options. In addition to your barbecue favorites like ribs and pulled pork sandwiches, Smokin’ Betty’s offers a Tur-Duck-En burger (containing turkey, duck and chicken on a bun) and matzoh ball soup for all of our kosher readers. However, being at an authentic barbecue restaurant, we took it upon ourselves to try the quintessential Memphis-style fare. From the reasonably priced menu, we ordered two Small Plates and two Big Plates, although the restaurant also boasts lists of salad, sandwich and burger offerings.
We started with an order of chicken wings ($8) with a choice of “Sam’s Famous BBQ Sauce” or a Spicy Dry Rub, and the BBQ sliders ($8). We were immediately impressed with the true barbecue flavoring of both small dishes. The wings ordered with spicy dry rub and grilled to perfection put Ed’s sauce to shame. The three sliders on the plate, each prepared with a different sauce (hickory smoked beef brisket, Caribbean pulled pork, and my personal favorite, Carolina pulled pork) would definitely satisfy a wide variety of palettes. Both dishes were coupled with sides of delicious macaroni salad that perfectly complemented the smoky flavors. Although named “Small Plates,” we were already full from the generous portion sizes — the wings plate consisted of ten pieces. However, we persevered and made room for our next course.
We welcomed our half-rack of hickory smoked St. Louis ribs ($14.50) with grilled veggies and french fries and the scallop special ($15) with open arms, our expectations high after a satisfying first course. Although spoiled from the largely portioned first course, we could not have anticipated the huge helpings of food in our entrees. The half-plate of ribs could have easily fed two, the restaurant living up to the southern mantra of “go big, or go home.” Yet while we received heaping plates, we were less satisfied with our second course than we had been with our first. While I may not be a rib connoisseur, it did not take a Top Chef to know these were a bit too tough. However, the side dishes (chosen from a list of nearly 20 options) produced more positive results. The highlight of the scallop plate, unfortunately, was also its side dish — the accompanying tomato, corn, and asparagus salad. The scallops were merely satisfactory, and the bland taste left us wondering if they had been mis-seasoned.
When our waitress listed the dessert options, we were a bit underwhelmed by the traditional choices. We ordered a fig and strawberry tart, the menu’s most exotic offering. Although appetizing, it was not quite worth its price. All things considered, I would pass on dessert and stick with the main menu.
The Small Plates were the absolute highlight of the meal. After sampling the tasty sliders, I would also suggest trying Smokin’ Betty’s pulled-pork sandwich ($9.95) which promises to be another small plate hit. It too comes with a side of delicious french fries and macaroni salad, two of our favorites of the evening. In addition to its food menu, Smokin’ Bettys also offers a fully loaded bar stocked with tap beers that would surely complement any barbecue dish perfectly. The grand portions, winning side dishes and delicious Small Plates at Smokin’ Betty’s satisfied my barbecue cravings, a perfect place to try when you are in the mood for something truly different from classic Philly cuisine.
