Thanks to Philly’s vast and varied dining options, every Penn student racks up a list of “must-try” BYOs and bars over the course of four years. We traipse across the city, sampling the high-profile and the low-key, all in the hopes of getting through that list by grad time. At the top of our list for the past year? Meritage. An employer proclaimed that after tasting a Meritage burger, we would be “sad to have only one year left in Philadelphia to enjoy it.” We finally decided to check off our number one slot, and we headed to the upscale restaurant.
Typically frequented by high-powered suits and classy Center City locals, Meritage is a step up from ever-popular birthday BYOs. We were greeted by professional staff; a beautiful dark wood bar; simple, elegant decor; and romantically dim lighting.
Our server confirmed that Meritage has the longest wine list in Philadelphia, so a selection from their pages of bottles was a must. We chose one of the few reasonably-priced reds: an Astica Malbec ($36). True to its name (which we found to be a fancy schmancy vineal term, thanks to Google), Meritage would satisfy any wine connoisseur with its extensive (and expensive) wine menu.
We began with an amuse-bouche of skewered butterfish, bacon and a roasted cherry tomato. The crispy bacon complemented the light whitefish, giving our meal an intriguing start. We then sampled the tuna tartare ($12) with shallots, jalapeno and lemon. The accompanying wonton chips — an upscale take on Pringles — added a nice crisp to the soft-textured tuna. The fish was fresh and the flavors bold, the jalapeno offering a unique kick.
For our entrees we ordered from both the dinner menu and the cheaper, more limited bar menu. Off the bar menu we sampled a grilled cheeseburger ($12) with Gruyere, seasoned with Worcestershire and herbs on a toasted bun with caramelized onions. It was cooked to a perfect medium rare, and the side salad was a refreshing accompaniment to the beef.
The dinner menu offered slightly less bang for more buck. The mussel appetizer with a saffron, white wine and chorizo broth ($11) was a generous portion, simple in composition and spicy in flavor. The high quality of the braised beef short ribs ($22) was overpowered by a thick and salty sauce, but its side of truffle mac and cheese was a highlight of the night.
With yet another nod to its name, each dessert comes with an optional wine pairing. We somehow saved room for dessert (sans wine) and opted to share the house made tiramisu ($8). It was not-too-heavy, the flavors were well balanced and the portion size sated a table of four. We agreed that every course provided opulent and delicious takes on restaurant classics. If you’re looking for the perfect place to take the ‘rents, the dinner menu and wine list at Meritage are sure to impress; yet the cheaper bar menu is an ideal and affordable meal for those of us on a college student’s budget.
We have a feeling that Meritage will accumulate quite a few check-marks on our list, and take our word for it: after one bite of burger, you’ll be sad you didn’t discover the restaurant sooner, no matter how much time you have left in Philly.
