Philadelphia is mad about gastropubs. Predicated on serving high(er) quality food alongside specialty drinks, they’re a welcome alternative to long, drawn-out meals. Ladder 15, the recent venture from the owners of Mad River, follows this model with a few hits and several misses.
Housed in a former firehouse on 15th and Sansom, Ladder 15 is at once expansive and intimate. Comprised of three levels, the building is sparse but not overly hollow. Dark leather banquettes rim the room and provide some semblance of privacy, but it’s clear that the bar invites guests to mingle.
Wines, assorted beers and whimsical cocktails construct an easily-swallowed narrative (try the Cherry Ice with real pop rocks), but that fluidity is missing from the culinary lineup. While Ladder 15 attempts a continental survey of glamorized pub food, the ultimate result is generally ill-matched ingredients. It’s a telling sign that most of the patrons around us munched only French fries as a complement to their beers.
A few standouts on the menu, however, are testament to Ladder’s potential. The seared tuna ($12) was cooked perfectly and topped with avocado, a creamy trope juxtaposed with salty corn nuts. The best plate we had all night was the smoked mushroom “VLT,” a riff on a BLT and suitable for vegans ($11). Made up of mushrooms cured in soy and brown sugar that approximated bacon (save for the texture, it was almost impossible to tell the difference), lettuce, tomato, potato sticks and a whole-grain mustard on toast, the sandwich was both innovative and delicious. Another success came in the form of buffalo wings, which were fall-off-the-bone tender and plated with a zesty ranch sauce ($11).
Perhaps the most disappointing appetizer was the mac ‘n’ cheese croquettes ($8), deep-fried balls stuffed with cheese and Rice-a-Roni-esque particles. The stewed tomatoes perched alongside were far tastier. Similarly, the braised short rib flatbread ($12), which seemed promising on the basis of its excellently cooked meat, proved too dry and the goat cheese overpowered the other elements. Though they seemed to be the most popular item, the truffle fries ($6) were an exact replica of Marathon’s and the Parmesan aioli sauce was neither creamy nor satisfying.
If the kinks can be ironed out within the next few months, Ladder 15 will serve as an excellent meeting place for a few drinks and dishes. The dance floor will also appeal to frats and sororities looking for their next date party venue. Until then, however, stick to drinks — this gastropub has a few more rungs to climb to guarantee success.
Ladder 15 1528 Sansom St. (215) 964-9755
