The ambiance at Matyson was one of an intimate dining space — the kind of place you’d go on a first date rather than as a big group of rambunctious people. Quiet and discreet, the cream and red walls perfectly conveyed the quiet and discreet vibe the restaurant was going for, all the while encouraging its patrons to relax.
Despite the welcoming decor, I was somewhat disappointed by the menu items I sampled at Matyson. Having heard consistently good reviews by friends who had recently been to the BYOB, I was looking forward to a delectable dining experience, however Matyson failed to deliver on my high expectations. This is mainly a critique on the food, however, and not the service. In spite of the fact that I was half an hour late to my reservation, (and kept calling them at 10 minute intervals assuring them that I was five minutes away), they were extremely accommodating and didn’t try and rush us.
Matyson is known for its $45 tasting menus which change weekly based on seasonal ingredients or themes, ranging from “The incredible edible egg” to “Let’s get nutty.” The tasting menu wasn’t advertised on my visit, so we ordered á la carte instead.
I started with a herb-crusted Ahi Tuna, served on a bed of shaved fennel and watercress salad, black olives and a caper-lemon vinaigrette. The tuna’s herb crust was its saving grace as the fish itself was slightly overcooked. As for the salad, the vinaigrette pleasantly spiced up the somewhat bland base. I followed up the tuna with the crispy-skinned wild salmon filet served with curried green lentils, pineapple salsa and a mussel-coconut nage (this culinary buzzword du jour refers essentially to a bouillon). Unfortunately, the salmon was overly done and slightly too crispy, meaning it lost some of its flavor. The curried lentils and the mussel nage were rather delightful accompaniments. It’s a shame the fish itself didn’t live up to the other two’s standards. The sauteed diver scallops, however, was the most enjoyable entree we sampled. Crispy on top and served with truffled mashed potatoes and black trumpet mushrooms, these scallops were one of the hits on a menu that included a few salient misses.
Matyson 37 S. 19th St. (215) 564-2924 Don’t Miss: Sauteed diver scallops Skip: The salmon and tuna dishes Bottom Line: Creative seasonings save otherwise mediocre dishes
