Giorgio on Pine — a new BYOB spot where Valentino Ristorante once stood at 13th and Pine — invites patrons into a split-level space bounded by rustic, exposed brick walls and filled with warm lighting and the subtle sounds of Italian arias. The restaurant has a casual air, reflected in a simple menu of traditional Italian dishes.
Our meal began with grilled scampi, two decently sized shrimp served atop braised radicchio, small white beans and pine nuts ($8.75). Although the grilled shrimp were delicious, the appetizer was a bit too small to be substantial. The grilled Caesar salad ($7.50) on the other hand, with charred hearts of romaine and Belgian endive topped with shaved parmesan, was a perfectly deconstructed version of the traditionally creamy dish. This dish came highly recommended, and as someone who does not typically order Caesar salads in restaurants, I found it refreshing and unique.
For a main course, our waitress was quick to recommend the homemade gnocchi with a braised beef ragout. She declared the superiority of homemade pasta, yet in doing so alluded to the fact that only the dough for the gnocchi and the ravioli special that evening were freshly prepared in the kitchen — the penne, linguini, rigatoni and spaghetti were not. While each dish is described fully on the menu with a specific sauce — for example, Rigatoni with sweet Italian sausage and red bell peppers in marinara — the kitchen allows diners to rearrange the sauces to fit the pasta of their choice.
We ordered the gnocchi ($13), but instead of the braised beef ragout sauce, opted for a creamy tomato sauce with prosciutto, sweet peas and shiitake mushrooms. The slightly sweet pink sauce nicely complemented the doughy pillows of gnocchi.
The menu is very reasonably priced, and with all entrees under $20 it is easy to have a cozy Italian dinner at Giorgio without breaking the bank. In addition to the standard pastas on the menu, you can also add a side dish of spaghetti with marinara sauce to any entrée ($6.50).
At Giorgio on Pine, nothing is extremely inventive or original, but for classic, inexpensive Italian fare in a warm setting, make this your next stop on the BYO trail.
Giorgio on Pine 1328 Pine St. (215) 545-6265 Don’t Miss: Homemade gnocchi Skip: Sauteed calamari Bottom Line: Inviting atmosphere, Italian opera included
