August calls itself “a twist on classic Italian.” In a sense, August succeeds in its twisting, but a more accurate description might be “improving.”

At August, you’ll find all the usual suspects that lurk at the typical Italian Center City BYOB: the arugula and radicchio salad, the artichoke hearts, the almond-crusted salmon, the rigatoni bolognese. The kitchen at the South Philadelphia August just does them a little better.

To start, the beet salad is accompanied by a light ricotta salata and pistachios, which add a welcome pinch of extra flavor.The artichoke heart retreats more to the family of standard BYOB fare, but cannellini beans are a welcome addition to the otherwise average dish. A dish of three pan-seared scallops are well-cooked and flavorful, but seems like it might belong on the bottom half of the menu, not as an appetizer.

The entrees, however, do more to impress. The French-style roast chicken is moist and hearty. Served with a side of silky garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed zucchini, the chicken dish is just what it should be: savory and comforting. A lightly battered red snapper is a specialty on the menu, and is also hard not to finish despite the large portion size. The fish is moist and flavorful, dressed in a tangy, succulent sauce. The dishes at August display a kind of careful professionalism that other BYOs consistently lack. The service and style of the restaurant do the same.

August trades in pink tablecloths for black ones and tacky paintings for sleek dark walls. Through the silver Venetian blinds, diners can peer out at the dark and quiet corner of 13th and Wharton Street. The only caveat: if you get one of the two window tables, the booth is somewhat uncomfortable and awkward to sit on. The service, too, impresses. The almost all-female staff is patient and playful, and your wine won’t sit warm in the middle of the table. Better yet, your server will actually remember to come over periodically and pour.

Time wastes away quickly at the calm and relaxed August, but the third course is a welcome one. For dessert, there are a variety of tasty standard Italian options, including a light cheesecake and a chocolate truffle torte. August is not a go-to for the rowdy or raucous, but for a small group in no rush, the restaurant and its friendly staff provide a warm and memorable evening with good grub to boost.

August 1247 S. 13th St. (215) 468-5926 Don’t Miss: French-style roasted chicken with mashed potatoes Skip: Bringing large groups of rowdy patrons Bottom Line: Relaxed dinner spot serves up tasty twists on Italian cuisine