Upon walking into Swallow Bistro, you’ll be struck by the thought that you’ve left Philadelphia altogether. The indigo walls support mirrors with black trim, through which you might catch a glimpse of the spacious room’s crimson chandeliers. Add to that the pink candles on the black tables and the restaurant’s suggestive name, and you’ll wonder if this Northern Liberties eatery is selling something entirely different altogether.
But rest assured — this is no Parisian bordello. And while Northern Liberties may seem barely unrecognizable as Philadelphia when you compare it to the area we call home, the neighborhood is hardly the red-light district of Philly past.
One look at Swallow’s menu will only further confirm that. When the restaurant first opened in 2008, it was a BYOB serving French bistro cuisine (that was perhaps more fitting to the restaurant’s décor). But according to our waiter, the change in economic climate forced chefs Jason and Cindy Caminos to re-imagine the space. The result was a charming and clever idea: Swallow now serves macaroni and cheese, exclusively.
At first glance, the number of possible options on the menu seemed intimidating. With an offering of 11 different cheeses ranging from the mild to the pungent (imagine, a gorgonzola mac!), Swallow allows diners to tailor dishes to their specific palates. As if deciding between gruyere and pepper jack weren’t difficult enough, the restaurant also offers an assortment of meats and vegetables for an extra cost. Add the option of both small and large, and the possibilities are seemingly endless (prices range from $8 to $12, depending on your choices).
For those who need a little direction, the menu presents a list of suggested combinations that are sure to please any diner. Those in the mood for bold flavors might be interested in the “Mexican” (cheddar and pepper jack cheeses with chicken breast, jalapenos, sautéed onions and cilantro; a small costs $8.50). On the other hand, perhaps there’s something to be said for simplicity. The ingredient list of the four cheese (asiago, cheddar, gruyère and parmesan cheeses; $8 for a small) was enough to make my mouth water.
In the end, I simply couldn’t resist the thought of traditional comfort food and decided on a blend of gruyère and cheddar cheeses, bacon and sautéed mushrooms (the large, which was more than enough, was $10). I eagerly broke through the breadcrumbs on top, which added a crunchy texture to contrast with the tender noodles. My mouth was hit instantly by the sweet, smoky flavor of the bacon. While I was initially disappointed that I couldn’t detect the nuttiness of the gruyère in my dish, as I kept eating, I realized that the flavors in the dish were balanced so that no one ingredient overpowered the others. Perhaps the only low point of the dish was its need for a bit more seasoning: it was lacking in both salt and pepper.
The rest of the meal, however, suggested that my dish was the exception rather than the rule. The side of cornbread we ordered ($1.50) was beautifully prepared. Served warm, it was neither too spongy nor too dry. This care also extended to my companion’s macaroni, a mixture of goat cheese and parmesan cheeses with the addition of spinach (large, $10). Upon presenting it, the chef came to our table, complimenting her on her selection. “I was worried there wouldn’t be enough dairy fat,” he added, “but I love the taste.” It was an assessment we both agreed with. The creamy sauce surrounding the pasta was surprisingly light and the goat cheese and parmesan balanced beautifully.
A BYOB offering delicious comfort food at low prices, Swallow pleases from start to finish. While it might be a far trip from campus, the restaurant’s food is as warm and inviting as its décor suggests.
Swallow Bistro 1030 N. American St. (215) 238-1399 Don’t Miss: Budget-friendly four cheese macaroni Skip: If you need your veggies Bottom Line: Taking mac ‘n’ cheese to the gourmet
