The primates on the walls at Bridget Foy’s never smile alone. Whether a regular or a newcomer, few can hide their satisfaction with this South Street hot spot. With coppered ceilings, upholstered wall panels, warm tones and subdued lighting, Bridget Foy’s welcomes without overwhelming. Décor here is inviting but reserved, tasteful but not as tasty as the menu, thus securing food as the restaurant’s main focus.

Despite its large regular customer base, Bridget Foy’s has managed to dodge complacency, leaving a delightful experience for the newcomer. Our waiter was thorough in explaining the menu and made clear from the offset that he should be flagged down for any request, pointing out a few of his favorites and slicing a lemon at our table for our water glasses. The waiter and the server successfully managed attentiveness without being intrusive, stopping by the table frequently but never seeming to interrupt the experience.

The menu boasts a wide selection of American cuisine, speckled with more foreign dishes as odes to the influences that have shaped our nation’s food. Pork chimichangas ($9), BBQ duck tacos ($10) and pot stickers ($10) sit between your more conventional jerk chicken breast ($18) and Cadillac meatloaf ($16). I’m not one for cocktails, but couldn’t help admiring the selection, especially house specials like the “Bridgetini” or “What a Wonderful World” made at the lively “Monkey Bar,” that draws a late night crowd.

I started with seared scallops in a blood orange vinaigrette ($11), continued the seafood trend with lobster pasta in vodka cream sauce ($19), and polished off the meal with the molten chocolate cake ($6). The scallops were perfectly cooked and drizzled with an excellent vinaigrette. The lobster pasta was well portioned and accented with cherry tomatoes, although I would have appreciated more lobster meat. The noodles carried a homemade consistency. Cream sauces can be heavy and neutral in taste; Bridget Foy’s trades this for medium thickness and a rich, nutty flavor. Dessert was satisfactory, but came off as a bit of an afterthought, though the side of freshly whipped cream was a welcomed touch.

Bridget Foy’s only downside is that it’s “pretty good” at everything, in other words a bad “occasion” restaurant. It’s not especially romantic, quiet, wild, formal, youthful or exotic but simply a surefire choice when you don’t feel like cooking. It’s the sort of place where age seems to fall away, and 20-somethings rub shoulders with 50-year-olds.

Given the service, reasonable pricing for reasonable portions, hip location and quality food, Bridget Foy’s deserves its commanding reputation as one of the best in the South Street area.

Bridget Foy's 200 South St. (215) 922-1813 Don’t Miss: Lobster pasta with cream sauce Skip: Dessert Bottom Line: Nothing extraordinary, but a far cry from burgers and fries