Carman's Country Kitchen
1301 S. 11th Street
(215) 339-9613
The sign next to my table at Carman's Country Kitchen, on 11th and Wharton in South Philly, proclaimed that the eatery "put the cunt back in country." The same motto was on the side of the restaurant's pickup truck, parked on the street outside the window. I confess I didn't see it. After all, even Urban Dictionary calls it potentially "the most offensive word in the English language." But Carman herself and her staff of two were some of the nicest, most down-to-earth restaurateurs I've ever met. They introduced themselves right away, explained the menu and chatted about life and school while our waiter brought out one little container after the other: cream, ketchup, hot sauce, butter, syrup and best of all, blueberry preserves.
The menu was simple - four dishes written up on a white board behind the counter: a mushroom-spinach-blue cheese omelette with garlic mashed potatoes and toast, banana-pistachio pancakes (my choice) or Belgian waffles, a lamb shank with eggs and potatoes and the ever-trendy challah French toast with coconut, molasses and a yogurt sauce with cranberries and pineapple. Three of these options were vegetarian, which made me happy, but came with a suggested side of bacon or sausage for the omnivores in the house. Carman serves a healthy portion, but the pancakes were so good I finished mine and tried a bite of my friend's omelette, too. Of course, I was still completely full six hours later, and that's not bad for 12 bucks.
Carman's décor is unconventional. Although in some respects the display of knick-knacks reminded me of my grandmother's house, there were a few unexpected surprises. In all my immaturity, I remarked to my friend that the spout of a teapot on the windowsill next to us looked particularly phallic; she proclaimed that the mug sitting next to it also had a penis-shaped handle. On the way into the restaurant I nearly jumped out of my skin when I bumped into the fully-dressed mannequin standing next to the door. But somehow, it all comes together: the quirky atmosphere combined with a homey, vintage feel creates its own aesthetic that serves to enhance the experience of Carman's diverse cooking.
