My dad told me when I was younger that he first started listening to jazz when he was in college. At the time, I couldn't believe it - it seemed impossible anyone could, firstly, adopt an entire genre of music into their listening palate so late in life (yes, college students still seemed very old to me at the time) and secondly, could do so entirely on his own.
As I think about it now, the reason for his late-blooming appreciation for jazz is all too obvious. He went to school at NYU, the borderless campus which is more or less centered in Greenwich Village. He lived within a ten block radius from The Village Vanguard and The Blue Note, arguably the two most prestigious jazz clubs in New York City. He was in the heart of the East coast jazz scene, not 15 years after its pulse hit its peak rate. If that didn't ignite his passion for jazz, I don't know what would have done it.
Center City may not be 1970s Greenwich Village, but there's more to it than meets the eye. Philadelphia was also once a center for jazz music and many people don't realize there are a handful of great jazz venues just around the corner. I'm here to provide you with a quick rundown of some of the best jazz joints the City of Brotherly Love has to offer and what you can expect to see and hear.
Our first stop is Natalie's Lounge (4003 Market St.), the only club in University City dedicated to jazz and that is surprisingly free on Saturday nights. It's a comfortable place, with a cozy little stage at the far end, perfect for a trio or quartet. Don't be fooled (or scared) by its appearance, because it certainly doesn't get an "A" for looks. But inside, Natalie's is a lively place with great music any night of the week. Every Saturday night features a jam session with local drummer Lucky Thompson from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.; from 9 p.m. to midnight, a band takes the stage. One major downside to Natalie's is that bands don't always receive the proper attention they deserve due to the excessive talking in the audience, a result of the bar dominating the room.
Across the city, Ortlieb's Jazzhaus (847 N. 3rd St.) has a similar problem: the bar commands so much space at the front of the house that talking in the audience is a major problem. However, there is a defined dinner area which is much quieter. The stage is in the middle of the dining area, along the side wall of the very narrow room, causing some visibility issues. But despite its distant Northern Liberties location and uncomfortably narrow space, Ortlieb's draws a full house on Saturday nights. House drummer Mickey Roker plays Saturday evenings regularly, bringing the old-school jazz-quartet sound to an intimate setting. In addition to the music, the Jazzhaus unquestionably has the fastest bar service and the best kitchen of any of the three clubs.
Moving back west to Center City, we come to Chris' Jazz Café (1421 Sansom St.). It has the air of a stereotypical jazz club: dark and subdued, quiet except for the sounds emanating from the stage. On the night of a big show, such as the Bad Plus last Saturday, the Café is buzzing with life. By far the biggest name to come to Chris' in months, the Bad Plus sold out the house. It was rated "Best Jazz Club" of 2007 by Philadelphia Magazine for good reason: the seating is arranged in front of and around the stage, allowing listeners to be "up with the band," as the doorman put it. This is a dramatic step up from Ortlieb's and Natalie's, where seating with good visibility is limited or nonexistent. The Café creates a supremely relaxed environment in which listeners can choose from a wide variety of entrees, drinks and desserts at their own pace while enjoying the fantastic music.
I've had freshmen ask me, after now six months of being here in Philly, how SEPTA works. Philly's really not a big town, nor is it a hard one to get around. With Natalie's only a brief walk away, and Chris' and Ortlieb's easily accessible on the Blue Line (15th Street and Spring Garden stops, respectively), there is no reason you shouldn't be able to get yourself out to see and hear some great jazz in the City of Brotherly Love.
