Look out, there's a new element in town: Northern Liberties' Copper Bistro is a force to be reckoned with. Low lit, intimate and seating only 50 people, Copper Bistro opened six months ago in the same location as the short-lived Mediterranean restaurant, Aden. The white linen tablecloths and copper-toned accents provide a romantic, high-class environment. It is a place where students are welcome at any voice level. The open-air kitchen is situated next to the entrance, which means diners have the opportunity to watch the chefs at work.
Copper impresses from the time the bread hits the table, as two bread courses are provided. The first is a sampling of pita bread with chick pea salad on top, and the second is the more traditional warm roll with soft butter.
For appetizers, the waiter pointed us to the saffron-infused mussels ($7.50) and the duck spring rolls ($8), as well as a spring salad ($8). The mussels were the clear winner: a heaping portion of meaty, succulent mussels were easily enough for three and deliciously sauced. The duck spring rolls were tangy, mixed with carrot, wrapped in a won ton dough and accompanied by a chilli dipping sauce. The salad was a poor decision, both skimpy and over-salted.
The entr‚es were more resounding successes than the appetizers. The braised short ribs ($21) were succulent, falling off the bone. The large portion was set atop the creamiest mashed potatoes I have ever had. Another one of the restaurant's specialities, the seared duck breast with fregola sarda and cherry gastrique ($21) was surprisingly sweet. It was paired with large grain toasted couscous, eliciting ethos of Thanksgiving. The Branzino ($18) was also well-portioned, and perfectly cooked - crispy on the outside and tender on the inside - served on a bed of lentils.
The dessert was the most conductive element to the taste buds. The chocolate lava cake ($6) oozed with dark chocolate perfection, warmed to exactly the right temperature so it didn't burn the palate, and enough for three to share.
Chef and co-owner Daniel Connelly is still experimenting with the menu, but the ambience suggests that this new restaurant has promise. The engaging presence of both owners on a Sunday night shows that this restaurant is their baby. But remember, reservations are recommended.
