If you can find Govinda's, a hidden gem on South Street, you're in for a treat. On the second floor of a nondescript building, it's a challenge to locate the entrance to this vegetarian dining room - so difficult to find that the room was nearly empty on a Saturday evening. With milk-chocolate walls, orange curtains and paintings of tribal African masks, Govinda's is a Zen-like dining retreat, with jazz warming the air.
Carnivores will rejoice when reading the … la carte list of shrimp, halibut and steak entr‚es, but beware of the animal oasis - these entr‚es are all imitation meats. For a great meal at an amazing price, skip the … la carte options for the all-you-can-eat buffet ($14.95) and its 10 to 12 nightly selections.
While most buffets are not known for their brilliant service, Govinda's is an exception. Our waiter carefully explained the unfamiliar dishes, many of which had Indian and Asian influences. Four soups were offered as starters on the buffet table. The spicy split-pea soup was filling, dense, and pleasantly mild, with a slight spicy finish. The spicy chickpea and potato soup was vigorous and rich in red pepper and Indian aromas.
The chicken salsa - a basic tomato soup with corn, "chicken," and "pepper steak" - was a revolutionary experience for a meat-lover. The chicken and pepper steak were made of textured soy protein, with the consistency of soft stewed veal - a phenomenal taste for fake meat.
The buffet includes four entr‚e possibilities to pair with hefty spoonfuls of white or yellow basmati rice. The textured vegetable protein (similar to tofu) with broccoli and roasted red peppers was delightfully chewy and fairly successful in its meat-imitating attempt, with crispy vegetables in a sweet sauce.
The Kofta ball - a spin-off of a Middle Eastern meatball - was a concoction of chickpeas, shredded potato and ginger, lightly breaded and lightly fried, and swimming in a delicately spicy marinara sauce. Adding more sauce forgave the dryness of the two main ingredients.
The tofu with ginger and tahini sauce was simple and robust, with intermingling nutty and sweet flavors.
The final entr‚e - tofu with peas, zucchini, green beans and potatoes - was the least satisfying dish. While the peas were perfect and popped in your mouth with each bite, the tofu was bland and foamy.
Dessert is not included with the buffet, but if you're craving something sweet, tofu reappears post-entr‚e as a culinary chameleon. The dairy-free raspberry cheesecake and the death-by-chocolate ($5 each) were astonishing. The tofu-based cheesecake was luxurious. It lingered in the mouth, allowing for true indulging. The death-by-chocolate consisted of decadent chocolate cake with layers of chocolate cream and light chocolate mousse - all dairy-free, this dessert counts its sins in sugar instead.
Govinda's is a surprisingly delicious and inexpensive BYO buffet option; great before heading to a nearby downtown bar, or as a more elegant option for the hidden vegetarian in all of us.
