The first thing that greets visitors upon entering Amada is a large cast-iron pig. Presiding over the establishment as a traditional Spanish symbol of luck, the auspicious hog is also a stand-in for a specific type of Iberian ham, which cannot be legally imported into the U.S. "We're on a waiting list, though," a host assured me. "The second it's approved, we'll have it on the menu."
This meticulous attention to detail and an inventive approach to Spanish cuisine combine in Philly's newest tapas restaurant. "Amada" means "loved one," and the name couldn't be more fitting -- this is truly chef and owner Jose Garces' baby. On an average night, Garces roams the restaurant, making customers feel like family; when a woman breaks a glass, he rushes over to silence her apologies and ensure she's not hurt. After opening the Stephen Starr-run kitchens at Alma de Cuba and El Vez, Garces struck out on his own. The experience, he says, has been "like being unshackled."
Decorated in black, maroon, cream and dark wood, the expansive Old City locale is understatedly elegant. Wrought-iron candleholders add a warm glow to tabletops, and gauzy curtains surround a stage where flamenco dancers entertain diners on Wednesdays and Fridays. High tables in the bar area nestle within a small market of traditional Spanish ingredients. Cocktails ($9-11) like the "All About My Mother" pay homage to Spanish movie director Pedro Almodovar. In every detail, Amada is marked with the personal attention of a proud, loving father who wants to share his enthusiasm.
Nowhere does this passion shine more than in his food. The expansive menu boasts over 70 tapas, ranging from traditional to inventive. Plates are small and meant to be shared, and dishes come out as they are ready, cluttering the tables with white plates that showcase the vibrant colors of the food. Here reaching is not only allowed but encouraged, as diners are provided with fondue-style forks for spearing across the long tables.
Sharing at Amada, however, is easier said than done -- each dish is so perfectly prepared that the temptation is to devour the whole portion oneself. For purists, selections prepared "a la plancha," on a flat grill, are cooked with just a touch of garlic, lemon, and parsley to complement the fresh ingredients. A generous helping of calamari ($6) is outstandingly tender, and the simple preparation allows oyster and chanterelle mushrooms ($12) to assert their unique flavors. The empanada ($12) is a gourmand's spinach-artichoke dip, blended with manchego cheese and tucked in an impossibly light pastry shell.
Those seeking a bit more complexity will delight at flatbread with buttery duck and cabrales cheese balanced by sweet fig jam ($11). Also delicious are lamb chops stuffed with herbed goat cheese ($18). Here one appreciates the small portions, as such a dish would be too rich as a full entree, but avoids being overwhelming in its few bites. Amada also offers a wide selection of cured meats and cheeses. In the must-try mixed cheese plate ($15), each of three varieties is perfectly paired with a garnish -- a fresh goat cheese, for instance, comes alongside balsamic macerated strawberries. Though these dishes are deceptively filling, dessert is an imperative. "Chocolate 5 Ways" ($6) is the stand-out; a partitioned platter boasts chocolate raspberry mousse, orange chocolate cake, chocolate ice cream, a hazelnut truffle, and white hot chocolate, each distinct and all sublime.
Passing the iron pig on the way out, it seems this place need not rely on luck to thrive. Thanks to Garces' brilliant vision and impassioned dedication, Amada is sure to secure its rightful reputation as one of Philadelphia's culinary masterpieces.
