Chinatown's culinary star is found just beyond its arched gateway. Penang, a Malaysian metallic wonderland, is the perfect spot for the young and adventurous to have a fantastic meal.

The vaulted ceilings and exposed metal pipes are celebrated, not obscured, by the emphasis on silver in its decor. Bright metal sculptures adorn the walls, and tables inlaid with metal bring the theme tableside.

Penang draws influences from throughout southeast Asia; Indian, Thai and Malaysian spices are all cited in the menu for intense flavor and heat. Some appetizers may be daunting for newcomers, such as the kerabu ($7.95), treated duck web in a sweet and spicy Thai sauce and the crispy pork intestines ($6.95). The penang poh pia ($4.95) appetizer, a spring roll filled with jicama, tofu, egg and bean sprouts, is a safer option.

Items throughout the menu explicitly ask the guest to ask the server for advice to ensure satisfaction. The young waitstaff is particularly helpful with the explanation of flavors and native ingredients; they are the newcomer's best ally.

Entrees are mouthwatering and spicy. After thorough deliberation I enjoyed the prawn mee ($5.95), a flavor-packed bowl of shrimp-based broth with egg noodles, shredded pork, shrimp, vegetables, and bean sprouts. Be sure to ask for water; it is not automatically provided despite its necessity.

Southeast Asian influences also make an appearance on the beverage portion of the menu. The lychee drink ($2.75) is a sweet, sugary potion filled with pitted, peeled lychees that are ripe and delicious. Penang also features Malaysian iced coffee and an impressive selection of juices. There is also a limited selection of beer ($3.50-$3.75) and wine ($5.50).

The dessert list is tiny, but after tasting Penang's fried ice cream with bananas and coconut ($5.95), no other dessert need exist.

Penang is a perfect place to warm up in the coming chilly months with some good, spicy food. The kitchen opens at 11:30 a.m. and stays open throughout most of the night, finally closing its doors at 1:30 a.m., giving anyone an opportunity to experience new flavors as well as old favorites. While much of the menu is spicy and can be intimidating for the less adventurous, each category of the menu features something familiar; lo mein, wonton soup, and chow fun are all offered. However, the waitstaff will not steer you wrong, so try something new and surprise yourself.