When I set off to Manayunk, it was with the perfunctory objective of getting to Jake's, sitting down to a bounteous brunch, and then getting the hell out. But the neighborhood's charms, and my party's level of fullness, called for a leisurely walk. The aptly named Main Street is packed with interesting cafes, restaurants and boutiques, and the corresponding smells of coffee, good food and incense.
But if you have to choose one place to splurge, make it Jake's. The decor is elegant yet inviting, and it is immediately apparent that Jake's is a dinner-centric restaurant. But the brunch really had me fooled. In addition to the requisite bread, we were served a banana loaf (it was average, but one has to appreciate the effort) and a fantastic blackberry/black currant/citrus jam. To start, I had the pecan and almond granola, which was accompanied with a vanilla bean yogurt that was clearly homemade. My friends ordered a smoked salmon, gorgonzola and walnut salad and a leek and potato soup. The salad was decent, and the soup, served with a curious little sweet potato and leek terrine, was outstanding. Best of all, these starters were free with our main courses.
After this, I was obviously buoyant for the main course, and it didn't disappoint. I had Eggs Benedict ($17.50), served with a jumbo-lump crab cake, asparagus, and a chicken, white wine and apple sausage. Unfortunately, the eggs were lukewarm and the sausage was uninspiring, as poultrified imposters of pork tend to be. But the crab cake, also offered by itself, was piping hot and unbelievable. This and the leek cream, standing in place of hollandaise sauce, redeemed the dish. One companion had an open-faced burger ($15) topped with caramelized onions and a disappointingly impotent 'cave-aged' gruyere. The other had a staggering French toast ($14): three enormous tranches of perfectly egged brioche, drenched in an intense strawberry coulis.
By this stage our mouths had already cashed checks that our digestive systems couldn't afford. So we shared three desserts: a Peach Buckle ($8) (effectively a crumb cake), a 'Cookie taco' ($9) and Jake's Apple Pie ($8). The taco was a visually impressive gimmick, and the pie was delicious; both were drowning in a plate of viscous caramel syrup and homemade vanilla ice cream. But the Buckle really clinched the deal. Encompassed by cr‹¨«me Anglaise and crowned by a ridiculous blackberry and lavender ice cream, it will destroy the most deep-rooted prejudice against fruity deserts.
Jake's brunch menu is a terrific value; a complimentary appetizer and a well sized entree will set you back only $12.50-$17.50. Moreover, several of the dishes available for brunch (including the imperious crab cake) cost twice as much at dinner-time. And when you're finished, you certainly won't be thinking about dinner.
