Loie is exciting. I almost refused to promote it because I feel possessive, and restaurant love has not happened to me for a while.
As it turns out, Loie forgoes American stereotypes of French dining for authenticity. My hot date and I walked right past its bright yellow banner at 128 19th St. because it was rustic and lively. I was looking for a square maroon sign with French script. I had completely forgotten the carefree, delicious restaurants of the Champs-Elysees.
The hostess let us choose our own table -- a velvety booth by the bar. The peachy stone ceiling, large Toulouse Lautrec-inspired watercolors and French pop music were all quiet enough for easy conversation. Within three minutes, the new milieu had me so relaxed that I felt suspiciously wined-up -- though I swear I wasn't.
For those of you whose French -- despite eight years of schooling -- is still comme-ci-comme-?a, Loie's menu generously includes English descriptions of every French-titled dish. Appetizers run from $6 - $11 and arrive speedily. The flaky pastry topped with gruyere, maple-drizzled pear and earthy watercress is so delectably sweet that I guarded it with my body while I disingenuously offered my date a taste. The Red Pepper soup is aromatic and light, providing a refreshing contrast to my sugary treat.
Entrees($19-25) feature standard selections including lamb, steak, trout and chicken. But each basic meat is garnished with a different-and sometimes pleasantly unusual-fresh ingredient. Expect to taste flavors, ranging from artichoke and pomegranate seeds, to black tahini. Even basics like mashed potatoes gratify an eager appetite. As my date remarked about the potatoes, "I don't know what this is, but it's heavenly creamy and melting in my mouth."
If rack of lamb feels too tr?s chic for you, then try Loie's underappreciated veggie burger. One word: Cheeeeese. Oh Lord, the cheese on that humongous rockstar sandwich. Unfortunately the bun was undersized, and I do like buns.
If the sweet starter did not satiate your cravings, then delve into the extravagant dessert menu. Desserts range from a standard $5 to a more pricy $10. Ice cream enthusiasts, beware: "Fondant" -- Bailey's ice cream and pistachio on a bar of gooey fudge -- is indescribable. The phrase "hardcore chocolate,"-- in fact my favorite word-pairing -- ran through my mind four times as I savored. Don't be tempted by anything too conspicuously American, though; pass up the overly-sweet apple cobbler for the more traditional French fare.
What struck me most about Loie was its appeal to a wide audience. At 7 p.m. on Thursday, the Loie bar hosted cute-suited, twenty-something men. When I mentioned the venue to Tom, my 22-year-old keg delivery man, he mentioned that he had been there late night to play pool and enjoy the nightly DJ. Loie is a serious hotspot. Five stars.
