Only a few blocks south of the heart of Center City lies a cozy eatery called the Warsaw Cafe. Since 1979, when Brezhnev's Communist regime controlled the Soviet Bloc, proprietor Marion Jarzemski and his mother Marie have been doling out traditional Eastern European dishes that would make even the most staunch commies consider immigrating to Philadelphia. When the restaurant first opened, the Jarzemskis featured only one entree on their menu, the beef stroganoff that consists of thinly sliced beef with onions and mushrooms in a wine dill and sour cream sauce.
Despite the bad rep that borscht is known for, this soup of beets mixed with other finely chopped vegetables and a dash of sour cream is an essential starter with brilliant flavors and a complex aroma. The pierogies ($6) are the other favorite appetizer for Soviets in need of comfort food. With fabulous crispy texture, the pierogies come in two varieties: potato or the more daring veal and mushroom.
The Warsaw Cafe is remarkable, in that it is the only surviving Eastern European locale in the Philadelphia area. Though restaurateur Stephen Starr tried to break into this niche market with Cafe Republic -- featuring westernized favorites like expensive caviar, top shelf vodka and imported cigars -- his enterprise was short-lived. At Warsaw, authenticity takes precedence over glitz. In fact, the only caviar is served with the Russian Crepes ($9.50 for two) that are oftentimes featured as a daily "special."
For entrees, the sauerbraten ($23) is the most expensive menu item but well worth the dent in the wallet. This filet mignon marinated three days in red wine, lemons and herbs served with a sweet and sour brown sauce gives European flair to the menu item featured so frequently at American-style steakhouses. The Austrian Lamb Stew ($16), a roasted leg of lamb stewed with dried fruits and vegetables, is also quite flavorful. For those people who like breaded pork scallops sauteed with a mushroom dill sauce, or saying the word wiener, the Wienerschnitzel ($17) is a perfect choice.
With only six entrees and four appetizers on the menu regularly, Warsaw provides many daily specials to appease diners with less adventurous taste buds. Such specials include grilled salmon, crab cakes, bronzino veal, rouladen and roast pork tenderloin for less than $20. At $6 a piece, the delicious dessert options should be taken advantage of with homemade cheesecake, pecan pie and a whiskey-based chocolate cake.
When in need of a cozy cafe with an eclectic and exotic menu, or the perfect place for a romantic evening to construct a new Strategic Arms Limitation Treaty, Warsaw Cafe is second to none.
