The word "nosheri" brings to mind that ever-present spread on grandma's coffee table -- the offerings vary, but chunks of melon (on toothpicks), mixed nuts and crackers to spread with chopped liver are always featured. It doesn't matter if you're about to sit down to lunch or have just finished a 10 course Jewish feast five minutes ago, the philosophy is, there's always room for a little nosh. That in mind, pulling up to Philly Nosheri on the unassuming residential block of 21st Street to find a convenience store might leave you a little perplexed.
But don't be fooled. Skip the aisles packed with everything from Clorox to beef jerky, pick up a six-pack from the full wall of beer refrigerators (they boast an expansive selection of microbrews -- everything from Red Stripe to Magic Hat to Negra Modelo) and head to the shady little diner in the back. It's reminiscent of the kind of place you'd stop to eat on the New Jersey Turnpike, with little vinyl booths and a menu featuring an eclectic mix of almost any type of food you could possibly be in the mood for. Cheese steak? Kipper salmon platter? Fried matzoh? It's all here. For the ultra brave, go out on a limb for the seaweed salad, or just enjoy a thorough sampling of the variety of nosheri. For under $20 (for two), you'll leave with that impossibly full feeling you thought was only possible after Rosh Hashanah dinner at Grandma's house.
Food is served until 11 p.m., and the long breakfast menu is always offered. We reccomend trying the eggs: the vegetarian omelette ($5.75) is fluffy and golden brown, stuffed generously with spinach, mushrooms and onions. The quintessential white-bread toast served with butter and jelly is a perfect complement. Or, savor a stack of three banana and blueberry pancakes ($4.95) -- although it may be difficult to choose between them and challah French toast (on your choice of regular challah or raisin.)
The huge deli counter stocked with Boar's Head meats features the "Schmoozer Combo" ($5.95) of corn beef and pastrami piled high with cole slaw and Russian dressing on fresh rye from Metropolitan Bakery. It also offers a nice amount of lean, tender meat and an optimal ratio of meat to dressing, in the very words of a 2nd Avenue Deli loyalist. His only cause for complaint was the "sub-par pickle."
Everything is made to order, allowing you to take in the randomness of the establishment. Notably, the two nice Asian guys running the place will gladly answer any questions about the Yiddish-sounding menu specials (the "Mitzvah," "Yenta" and "Shlemiel," to name a few) as they ring up everyone else's cases of beer. Beer enthusiasts who have had enough with Natty and Beast should definitely check this place out, and while you're there, have a little nosh as well.
Philly Nosheri
236 S. 21st Street
(215) 567-3392
