Ms. Tootsie's Soul Food Caf‚ is named after Tootsie Rolls. No, seriously. When Keven Parker opened two soul food meccas four years ago -- Caf‚ 3801 at 3801 Market Street and Ms. Tootsie's Soul Food Caf‚ on 13th and South streets -- he named Ms. Tootsie's after his mother's favorite candy. In keeping with its origins, the restaurant offers patrons a handful of mini Tootsie Rolls and Tootsie Roll Pops with their checks at the end of their meals.
Ms. Tootsie's is a classy yet unpretentious soul food BYOB. Large black and white posters of famous African American entertainers -- some even signed with personalized messages to "Tootsie" -- adorn the walls. Softly glowing tealights in red-tinted glass holders complete the upside-down bouquet iron candelabras that delicately light the room. The overall atmosphere is artsy and elegant, a seemingly odd ambiance for such hearty food.
One's first inclination when going to a BYOB is to grab a bottle of wine enroute to dinner. However, this comfort food establishment serves Caf‚ 3801 Famous Tropical Blend Ice Tea ($3-$5), which comes in a classy sports bottle (minus the top, which you get when you leave) and is surprisingly better than alcohol. Warm fruit-infused tea fills the bottom of the bottle, topped with ice and slivers of watermelon as a refreshing garnish. Rum would be a perfect alcoholic addition, if you are so inclined. So ditch the wine and instead bring a little bottle of Captain.
Daneen, our server, immediately brought hot butter biscuits to the table, which were a warm welcome after having been outside in the bitter cold. According to Daneen, the number-one best seller on the menu is Sadiki's Fried Catfish ($17), because "you can get chicken anywhere, but catfish is special." The comfort food staple, Southern Fried Chicken ($12-$14), is perfectly crispy -- without being offensively oily -- on the outside and tender on the inside.
All entrees at Ms. Tootsie's come with your choice of two sides. Brown sugary goodness coat and penetrate the caramelized candied yams so that every bite is as sweet as the last. The syrupy, brown sugar mixture ran into the cheesy, cheesy macaroni and cheese -- which was, well, cheesy, but not in a gooey way -- and unexpectedly the juxtaposition of the flavors of the two sides compliment each other. Moreover, portions are extremely generous. Daneen was knowingly ready with doggie bag gear in hand when pants buttons popped and no more could be consumed.
No secrets to the soul are revealed at Ms. Tootsie's. Making all the food herself, Parker's mother splits her time between her son's two eateries. When asked, Daneen said with a coy smile that the secret to making the perfect fried chicken is simply "a lotta love"
