When I first heard that Roy's "Hawaiian Fusion" restaurant was part of a chain, I feared the worst: the Olive Garden with leis. Thankfully, there wasn't a breadstick in sight -- just a plethora of palm trees and grinning waiters in Hawaiian shirts offering an enthusiastic "Aloha!" with every refill of the water jug.
Founded in Honolulu in 1988 by one-time Iron Chef Roy Yamaguchi, Roy's can be credited with bringing the exotic flavors of the Pacific Rim to the mainstream. According to the manager of the Walnut Street restaurant, Aaron Redman, Roy's is dedicated to "the marriage of the freshest local ingredients, European sauces and bold Asian spices." The menu changes nightly and Hawaiian fish is flown in weekly. Roy's aims to "bring the Islands to Philadelphia," in the words of perky waitress Vanessa.
| Roy's 124 S. 15th Street (215) 988-1814 |
The ambience at Roy's is typical of an upscale theme restaurant -- ultra-dim lighting, an open kitchen, tropical plant displays and overwhelming modern art splashed on the walls. The only peculiar element of the atmosphere is the music -- The Police, Rod Stewart, and Genesis with Hawaiian xylophones in the background. Pass the Excedrin.
Thankfully, Roy's more than redeems itself with its delicious food. For appetizers, try the shrimp dumplings with roasted red pepper and banana coconut curry - an interesting combination, and spicy enough to merit a large swig of Roy's most popular cocktail, the Hawaiian Pineapple Martini.
The entr‚es are divided into two sections: 'Mai Ke Kai' (seafood) and 'Mai Ka'aina' (meat). The Ahi tuna was very rare, and covered in a fiery wasabi butter sauce hot enough to have made even the bravest of diners fight to regain composure. The Pilehu filet mignon was tender, juicy, and practically still breathing - just how I like it.
Executive Chef Edgar has been working for Roy's since 1999, first in Hawaii, then in Florida, and now on 15th and Walnut. Originally German ("I try and get over it," he laughed), Edgar specializes in blending European sauces with Asian dishes. "The flavors are light; it's healthy and fun," he explained. "The textures are interesting and I like the fusion of cultures."
The desserts are decidedly European in origin, with popular menu staples such as crŠme br–l‚e getting a Hawaiian makeover with some lemongrass flavoring. Roy's most popular dessert is undoubtedly the hot chocolate souffl‚. "People come from miles around for it," said waitress Vanessa. The rich cake exterior and warm melted chocolate center were so good, my friend and I were fighting over the last bite.
While slightly pricey, Roy's is definitely worth a trip. Just make sure to bring your dad's Visa and your sweet tooth.
