NOVELTY |
| * * (two stars) 15 S. Third St. 215-627-7885 |
Similarity to its old city counterparts is Novelty's only flaw. The food is divine, the d‚cor beautiful, the service, occasionally obsequious, but pleasant nonetheless. Unfortunately this is the description of nearly every new restaurant that borders the Old City Streets, creating a satisfying dining experience, but nothing terribly innovative or exciting.
Exposed pipes and dark walnut tables accompanied by dim lighting complete Novelty's d‚cor. A simple drink menu replete with the requisite whites, reds and international lagers accompanies a varied listing of appetizers, each an off-beat variation of something you may find in your grandmother's kitchen. The plentiful platter of fried calamari comes with a tangy cocktail sauce ($9). While the pierogies are topped with a smathering of goat cheese and crispy onions ($8).
The Novelty box ($22) is the most innovative item gracing the appetizer menu. The box is fashioned after the Japanese boxed lunch tradition and is filled with four seafood selections, changing daily.
Entrees come in two varieties. The diner may choose between lighter fares and full entrees. Seafood and red meat dominate the entr‚e list with two types of filet mignon (topped in tomato and mozzarella($24) or wrapped in veal($26.50) soft shell crabs ($25) and pan seared salmon ($22) topping the listings.
The only truly novel portion of the menu doesn't reach the table until the meal is nearly complete. The dessert menu provides unique and delicious pastry options. The chocolate peaunut butter cupcake ($7) comes covered in warm peanuts and hot chocolate fudge. It delightfully surprises the taste buds as a mixture of both peanut butter and chocolate filling oozes from the choclate cake shell. Each bite of the warm pecan tart ($7) is a different experiece. One section is warm and salty, teasing the tongue with a hint of butter, while the next is sticky and sweet with caramel topping.
The dining experience is a very enjoyable one, nonetheless it is one that can be found at numerous locations up and down the street.
